Üzümlü Dastarı is a handwoven textile produced using traditional methods in Yeşilüzümlü Mahallesi, Fethiye district, Muğla province, and certified with a geographical indication. Registered as a Protected Geographical Indication on November 20, 2020, this product is a fine cotton weave that reflects the region’s cultural heritage.

^{Üzümlü Dastarı (AA)}

Definition and Distinctive Features

The product is woven on hand looms using 100% cotton yarn. It is produced in the natural creamy color of cotton, which whitens with use and washing. Üzümlü Dastarı is distinguished by two key characteristics:

1. Twisted Yarn Usage: Yarns twisted at an average of 600–800 turns create a flexible, wavy, and wrinkled texture. This structure keeps the fabric cool in summer and warm in winter. Approximately 10% shrinkage occurs after washing.
2. Patterned Weaving Technique: Motifs known as “nakış” or “yanış” are incorporated during weaving using specialized techniques. These motifs are the most distinctive feature, setting Üzümlü Dastarı apart from other weaves.

Originally woven as headscarves for women, dastarı is now used for various purposes, including children’s, women’s, and men’s clothing. When used as a headscarf, it is made by joining two panels, with each panel measuring 65–70 cm in width and 150–180 cm in length.

Materials and Technical Specifications

• Yarns:
• Warp and weft: 20/1 Nm raw cotton yarn.
• Motifs: Bleached thick cotton yarn (4–5 ply).
• Density:
• Warp: 12 yarns per cm.
• Weft: 14 yarns per cm.
• Loom Type: Woven on shuttle looms called “düven” using a plain weave technique.

Types of Weaves

In addition to dastarı, other weaves are produced in Yeşilüzümlü for various purposes:

• Mendil: Woven with cotton and wool yarns in striped patterns, used as headscarves or dowry items.
• Göynek: Woven with wool, cotton, and silk yarns in striped patterns, worn as a traditional garment under a three-layered skirt.
• Kanat: Narrow-width woven fabrics with motifs, available in plain or “paşa kenarlı” (ornate-edged) varieties.

Motifs

• Snake Motif: Woven in zigzag lines along the warp, symbolizing protection against jealousy and the evil eye.
• Leech Motif: Formed by three scales in a cross pattern, representing troubles, worries, and sorrow.
• Stick Motif: Four scales arranged in each other’s spaces, symbolizing beauty and purity.
• Kilim Motif: Woven with diagonal scales forming a diamond shape, expressing vitality, joy, and enthusiasm.
• Ulama Motif: Woven in a checkered pattern without leaving empty spaces, the most intricate motif requiring advanced skill.
• Circassian Motif: Combines two stick motifs with a single scale, often used as a combined or scattered motif.
• Pumpkin Flower Motif: Forms a star-flower shape with wide rectangles, inspired by Feretiko weaves.
• Daisy Motif: Created by combining two-directional leech motifs with a stick motif, used as a scattered or combined motif.
• Camel Foot Motif: Four incomplete squares joined by connecting threads, symbolizing strength and abundance.

^{Üzümlü Dastarı (AA)}

The arrangement of motifs is a key factor in defining the fabric’s character. Motifs can be:

• Placed at regular intervals horizontally and vertically across the fabric surface.
• Combined with different motifs at specific frequencies.
• Woven continuously along the fabric or arranged asymmetrically by changing direction.
• Grouped in a medallion style at the center of the fabric.
• Positioned only at the corners.
• Arranged in a “waterway” pattern along the edges or center.
• Placed strategically, such as at the collar or hem, for clothing purposes.

These arrangements are shaped by both aesthetic and functional considerations based on the fabric’s intended use.

Geographical Connection and Inspection

The production of Üzümlü Dastarı is tied to Yeşilüzümlü Mahallesi, and all production stages must occur within this geographical boundary. Inspections are conducted at least annually under the coordination of Fethiye Municipality, verifying yarn characteristics, production methods, motif placement, and proper use of the Protected Geographical Indication.