Hatay Silk

Hatay silk is a registered silk yarn and fabric product produced using traditional methods in Hatay Province, Türkiye. It was granted geographical indication status on 30 November 2017 and is produced using region-specific techniques, exclusively within the borders of Hatay Province. It is both a part of the local cultural heritage and an important example of traditional weaving craftsmanship.

Production Processes and Methods

Yarn Production

Hatay silk yarn is produced using two main methods: filament yarn production and kirman yarn production.

Filament Yarn Production

Filament production is carried out by processing silk cocoons in hot water to extract the fibers. This process uses a traditional Hatay system known as “Mancılık” (Hand Pulling Furnace). The Mancılık system consists of components such as a stone furnace, copper basin, yarn guides, spools, a mill, and a spindle wheel.

The number of cocoon ends used depends on the yarn number. For example, 10–15 cocoon ends are used for the thinnest yarns, while 70–80 cocoon ends are used for the thickest yarns. After the yarn is twisted, it is wound onto the spindle and formed into hanks to complete production.

Kirman Yarn Production

Kirman yarn production involves boiling cut cocoons in a solution of ash and soap, then drying and processing them into fiber, which is spun into yarn using a kirman (spindle). Materials used in this process include laurel soap and ash from oak or hornbeam wood. Coloring is done naturally depending on the type of cocoon.

Fabric Production

After yarn production, four types of fabrics are made using the obtained silk yarns. Weaving is done on hand looms. The fabrics are suitable for both vertical and horizontal cutting and exhibit various technical characteristics.

Four-Step Dress Fabric

• Warp yarn: Filament
• Weft yarn: Kirman
• Weave pattern: 3/1 (Z) twill
• Warp thread count: 3040
• Fabric width: 80–100 cm

Sadakor Shirting Fabric

• Warp and weft yarns: Filament
• Twist: Weft yarn twisted or untwisted (with shantung effect)
• Weave pattern: 1/1 plain weave
• Warp thread count: 2660–2850

Kirman Dress Fabric

• Warp and weft yarns: Kirman
• Weave pattern: 1/1 plain weave
• Warp thread count: 1330–1520

Shawl and Cover Fabric

• Warp and weft yarns: Filament
• Number of cocoon ends: 15–50 (depending on desired thickness)
• Weave pattern: 1/1 plain weave
• Warp thread count: 2660–2850

Geographical Boundaries and Inspection Process

Hatay silk is produced exclusively within the borders of Hatay Province, making this a regional requirement. Inspections are coordinated by Hatay Metropolitan Municipality. The inspection committee consists of a three-person team from the relevant municipal units and non-governmental organizations. Inspections are carried out during the production season from April to June and may also take place upon complaint.