Buldan Fabric

Buldan Bezi is a traditional woven fabric that was officially registered as a geographical indication on January 27, 2010, and is closely associated with the Buldan district of Denizli. Made from very fine cotton yarns and distinguished by its wrinkled surface, this fabric has wide applications in summer clothing and home textiles due to its excellent moisture-absorbing properties.

Buldan Bezi (Buldan Subdistrict Governorship)

Definition and Distinguishing Characteristics

Buldan Bezi is a traditional fabric woven from very fine and highly twisted cotton yarns, also known as “bürümcük” or “bükülü bez.” Its lightness, high moisture absorption, and wrinkled texture prevent it from clinging to the body, making it ideal for undergarments, summer clothing, and home textiles.

Although the fabric can also be produced using wool, linen, and silk yarns, cotton is the most commonly used material due to economic considerations. The yarns are first washed, dyed with natural or chemical dyes, then dried and wound onto bobbins in preparation for weaving.

Historical Background

The origins of Buldan weaving extend back to around 6000 BCE, to the earliest fabric fragments found at Çatalhöyük. Throughout history, the Hittite, Phrygian, Lydian, Persian, Roman, and Byzantine civilizations enriched the craft of weaving.

In the 14th century, the traveler Ibn Battuta’s reference to “fabric made of fine cotton with gold embroidery” recorded the unique character of Buldan Bezi in historical records. During the Ottoman period, a significant portion of palace textiles was sourced from Buldan. The undergarments of Ertuğrul Gazi, the shawl of Barbaros Hayrettin Paşa, and the shirt of Genç Osman were all woven in Buldan and are now exhibited at the Topkapı Sarayı Müzesi. ^【1】 

Buldan Bezi (AA)

Patterns and Color Traditions

In Turkish textiles during the 16th century, colors such as ceramic blue, güvez, baked quince, and saffron yellow, along with plant motifs like tulips and carnations, were widely used. In Buldan Bezi, geometric, striped, and plant-based patterns dominate, with red, yellow, and white being the primary colors. Red fabrics were used for flag production, while other colors were used for undergarments and headscarves.

Production Methods and Looms

Weaving was carried out on primitive hand looms until 1779, after which drawlooms (whip looms) were adopted. In whip looms, the shuttle is propelled mechanically rather than by hand. Motorized looms were introduced in 1951.

Today, production continues on both motorized and traditional hand looms. The yarns used are typically 100 percent cotton, with a count of 20/1 and a twist level between 25 and 28. This high twist gives the fabric its characteristic crinkled texture.

Buldan Bezi Weaving Loom (AA)

Natural Dyes and Local Materials

Natural materials such as madder, oak galls, walnut leaves, and pomegranate rind are used in dyeing, although chemical dyes are also common. Some colors, such as golden yellow derived from oak galls, are still produced using traditional methods.

Weaving Process

Yarns are wound onto spools called “çağ,” then prepared as warp threads. Weaving is carried out using mechanisms for shedding and picking. After being removed from the loom, the fabric is washed and treated with hot soapy water to develop its wrinkled texture. It is then dyed, softened, subjected to centrifugation and drying, and finally made available for use after quality control.

Applications and Product Varieties

For clothing: Buldan Bezi is used in garments such as shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, and shorts, available in widths of 80 cm to 185 cm in solid colors, striped, and printed varieties.

For home textiles: It is produced in widths ranging from 80 cm to 250 cm for products such as bedspreads, curtains, tablecloths, and sheets, in patterned or ecru finishes.

Peştemals and sheets are woven in both silk and cotton variants. Historically known as “Hoşgör,” silk fabrics are still classified and used as a type of Buldan Bezi.

Buldan Bezi (Buldan Subdistrict Governorship)

Quality Control Process

The geographical indication for Buldan Bezi was officially registered on January 27, 2010, and is protected through a marking system. Experts from institutions such as Pamukkale University and Ege University conduct inspections at least twice a year, monitoring yarn selection, pattern creation, and production stages.