Büryan kebab is a type of meat kebab with deep roots in Turkish cuisine and is prepared with regional characteristics in different parts of Anatolia. This delicacy, known as "perive" in Arabic, is referred to in Türkiye with different pronunciations such as “püryan”, “piryan” or “biran”. While it is known as “kuyu kebab” (well kebab) in Kastamonu, it is known as “büryan” in the regions of Siirt and Bitlis. Although the name and minor details vary from region to region, it is fundamentally prepared using the same cooking technique as a type of well kebab.
Büryan Kebab Well Visual (Siirt Municipality)
History and Regional Characteristics
Büryan kebab is typically consumed in summer months and early autumn. During these periods, animals are fed with fresh grass and are in their fattest state, so the meat's flavor reaches its peak. In winter months, it is less preferred due to livestock farming. In the Bitlis region, male kid meat called “hevur” or goat meat that has never given birth (“tiştîr”) is used for büryan, while male lamb meat is preferred in Siirt. This preference reflects the geographical and cultural characteristics of both regions. Unlike tandoor kebab, büryan distinguishes itself with its unique well-cooking method.
Boneless Büryan Kebab Visual (Siirt Municipality)
Preparation
The preparation of Büryan kebab is both a laborious and masterful process. The meat is prepared one day in advance, hung whole so it doesn't break, and heavily salted. The rested meat is placed in the well the next day for cooking. The cooking process unfolds as follows:
1. Well Preparation: In a well about 2-3 meters deep, fire is made, preferably with oak wood, until it turns into embers.
2. Meat Preparation: Half a carcass of lamb or kid meat is used. After separating the leg and shoulder parts, other bones are stripped, leaving the pelvic bone. Bony meats are placed in a copper cauldron with handles, sized to fit the well, and water is added, then it is set over the embers. Boneless meats are hung from hooks attached to a circular iron bar, suspended into the well from the pelvic bone. At this stage, 10-15 half carcasses are positioned to hang in the air without touching the walls.
An Example Büryan Kebab Serving (Siirt Municipality)
3. Cooking: The top of the well is covered with a metal lid, and its edges are sealed with mud or ash to prevent air from entering. During cooking, the fat from the meat drips into the cauldron; this prevents smoke from forming in the well, adding a distinct flavor to the meat. Boneless meats cook in an average of 2-2.5 hours, while bony meats take 3-3.5 hours.
4. Serving: The cooked boneless meats are removed from the well, hung on a counter, and the desired amount is cut with a knife and weighed. The meat, cut into cube-sized pieces, is placed on pide bread, salted, and heated in a stone oven before serving. Bony meats are taken from the cauldron and placed on a tray on the counter, and after being weighed, they are served with pide in the same manner. Büryan can be served from its fatty, lean, or medium-fat parts according to preference.
Bony Büryan Kebab Visual (Siirt Municipality)
Presentation and Consumption
Büryan is generally known as a dish sold on hangers. This kebab, served with both bony and boneless varieties, comes to the table complemented by pide bread. Traditionally consumed in summer, büryan is one of the striking examples of Anatolian cuisine, thanks to both its flavor and its unique cooking method.