Erzurum Ihram

Ihram (ehram) is a traditional women’s outer garment made from finely twisted sheep’s wool, woven on a shuttle loom with a flat surface, adapted to the harsh climatic conditions of Eastern Anatolia. This garment, widely worn in Erzurum and surrounding provinces, reflects both its historical craftsmanship and cultural identity.

Erzurum Ihram (Erzurum Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism)

Definition and Etymological Origin

Ehram is a covering garment that conceals the face down to the chin while leaving the eyes exposed. It is etymologically linked to ancient veiling garments and the Islamic pilgrimage garment known as ihram. In Erzurum, the word “ihram” is pronounced as “ehram”; similarly, “çulha” is rendered as “culfa”.

Historical Background

Since the 1850s, it has been produced in its current form. Erzurum has been the center of production, where culfa artisans practiced their craft. Ehram weaving remained a distinct profession until the mid-20th century.

Ihram in the Weaving Stage (AA)

Materials and Production Process

Wool Preparation

Sheep’s wool is washed with a mallet, then beaten and carded without drying.

It is separated into strands and formed into slivers; unusable portions are discarded as “waste”.

Spun threads are twisted using a teşi, wound onto spindles, and transferred to bobbins with the aid of a spindle wheel.

To enhance durability, the threads are dipped in a paste made from the çiriş plant and lime stone, then stretched.

Structure and Components of the Loom

Dağ: Keeps the warp threads taut and even.

Oturak (weaving and adjustment area): The platform on which the weaver sits.

Ayakça: Activates the heddles to open the shed.

Kuşlar: Enable the vertical movement of the heddles.

Kol and Tüfe: Pull the reed and establish connections.

Mitit: Two long wooden rods that maintain tension in the weaving.

Mekik and Masura: Carry the weft thread and pass it through the warp.

Selman and Sabitleme Demiri: Wind and secure the fabric.

Dehdün (rear, middle, upper): Ensures the straightness of the warp threads.

Ehram Tarağı: A wide reed with bamboo teeth that determines fabric quality.

Gücü and Tahsil Değneği: Guide and stretch the warp threads.

Ihram Loom (AA)

Weaving Technique

The selvedge is woven using cotton thread.

The weaver steps on the ayakça in sequence to open the shed between the warp threads.

The weft thread is passed through with the mekik; motifs are woven using specially placed colored threads.

Due to its narrow width, the fabric is woven in two pieces and sewn together diagonally.

Dimensions: Approximately 185 × 250 cm; one weaver can produce one ehram per day.

Color and Embroidery Culture

Natural tones of sheep wool—white, purple, brown, and black—are predominantly used.

Color signifies age: White is worn by young girls, purple or brown by middle-aged women, and purple or black by elderly women.

Motif examples: Clock Cord, Thyme Branch, Roe Deer Antler, Antique, Mirror Box, Apple Basket.

Embroidery is applied during or after weaving using a tefe tool.

Natural dyes are used: Green from walnut, brick-red from onion peel, burgundy from quince seed, and purple from mint root.

Wearing Style

Ehram is worn so that it covers the face from below the chin. It is secured by tucking the ends between the waist and belt; the side panels are called “felenek”. An atkı is draped over the top to complete the attire.

Women Wearing Ihram (AA)

Cultural Significance of the Geographic Marker

In 2018, it was officially recognized as a cultural symbol by the Aziziye Municipality. This registration is significant for documenting Erzurum’s cultural heritage. The production method, use of natural materials, and technical specifications are now legally protected.

Women’s Labor and Craftsmanship

Throughout history, the weaving process has been carried out by women. Spinning, motif application, cutting, and sewing are all performed by women. Today, workshops and training programs promote women’s employment in this craft.

Women in Ihram Production (AA)

Preservation Through Educational Institutions

Girls’ Vocational High Schools, Community Education Centers, and regional development projects sustain Ihram weaving by teaching and producing it.

Health and Natural Properties

Its chemical-free composition makes it skin-friendly. Due to wool’s natural insulation properties, it is especially advantageous during winter months.

Different Usage Examples (Erzurum Governorate)

Modern Applications

Today, ehram fabric is used in the following products: bags, wallets, belts, vests, ties, bedspreads, prayer mats, tablecloths, magnets, keychains, and decorative items.

Modern fashion designers are integrating it into contemporary outerwear.

Different Usage Examples (AA)