Hemşin socks, are a traditional handicraft product manufactured in the Hemşin district of Rize province, located in Türkiye's Black Sea Region. Hemşin socks, primarily made from sheep's wool and goat hair, are knitted using five knitting needles of size 2.5–3 (locally known as "cağ"). The socks were first mentioned in historical documents in the 19th century, specifically in the Trabzon Province Salnameleri (Yearbooks) dated 1879 and 1881; these documents stated that wool socks were produced and offered for sale in the Hemşin sub-district.
Rize Hemşin Socks (T.R. Ministry of Culture and Tourism)
Geographical Indication and Registration Information
Hemşin socks were registered as a designation of origin on 09.08.2021. The application was made on 10.03.2021 and processed under application number C2021/000111. The registration owner is Hemşin Municipality, and its address is Ortaköy Mahallesi, Atatürk Caddesi, Hükûmet Konağı Kat: 1, Hemşin/Rize. The geographical boundary of the product is limited solely to the Hemşin district of Rize province. The phrase “Hemşin Çorabı” (Hemşin Socks) and the designation of origin emblem must appear on the product itself or its packaging. If this is not possible, the said phrase and emblem must be visibly displayed at the establishment.
Materials and Colors Used in Production
Sheep's wool and goat hair are primarily used in the production of the socks. However, production with different types of yarn is also possible. The characteristic colors are red, blue, green, and white. Contrast colors are preferred to enhance the distinctiveness of the motifs. Generally, the background color is light (such as white, yellow), while the motif colors are dark and dominant.
Production Method
Wool Preparation
The sheep's wool used in the production of Hemşin socks is generally shorn twice a year, in May, June, and September. Additionally, lamb's wool is obtained in the autumn. The raw wool (fleece) obtained through this process is washed, dried, and freed from foreign matter. Low-quality wools are separated and sorted out from materials that will not be processed. This sorting process is called “kerkur etmek” in the Hemşin region.
The wool is carded with a wool comb and separated into smaller tufts. These tufts are locally called “tapul”. The carding process both cleans the wool and separates the fibers, making them easier to spin. Well-carded wool results in fewer breaks during the subsequent yarn production stage.
Yarn Production
The wool, transformed into "tapul" tufts, is twisted using a traditional tool called "yiğ". The yiğ is a wooden stick with a piece called “araşak” at its end, approximately 6–7 cm in diameter. The araşak facilitates the rotational movement, allowing the wool to become yarn. In some regions, this tool is also called a “kirman”. The wool is finely twisted with this setup to transform into yarn. The twisting process is done by hand, usually supported by the knee. The yiğ is spun around itself many times to form the wool into yarn. The resulting thread is wound onto the yiğ to prevent breakage. Then, it is twisted in the opposite direction, in two or three plies, using a tool called “ilik” to produce the final yarn.
Goat hair is processed similarly; however, it is not washed first but cleaned by hand and carded. Afterwards, it is transformed into yarn using the method applied to sheep's wool.
Yarn Dyeing
Yarns are colored using natural dyes. The primary dyeing materials used include onion peels, walnut shells, red cabbage, and tea. With these dyes, the yarns are boiled in cauldrons to be colored.
Knitting the Socks
Hemşin socks are knitted using five knitting needles of size 2.5–3. The knitting process begins from the toe (peceğ). The starting method and number of stitches vary according to the model and foot size. By increasing the number of stitches, the front and sole parts of the sock are knitted in a round shape. This process continues up to the ankle. Then, with the help of the bottom two needles, the sole part is knitted, and the heel is shaped, completing the “ökçe”.
The part of the sock above the ankle (konç) is knitted by embroidering motifs with colored threads on its front and back surfaces. This section can be of desired length. The knitting is completed with a four-finger-wide ribbed cuff. The finishing process is done using a method called “peronk”. This method can be applied using a knitting needle or a sewing needle. There is a general similarity in the starting and finishing methods of knitting between colorful and white socks.
Motifs and Patterns
The motifs used on the socks are created by drawing inspiration from natural elements and traditional patterns. Among the motifs are patterns known by names such as bird's eye, bird's leg, ram's horn, chain, keroç, horseshoe, kaytan, and sheep's eye. Unpatterned sections are knitted using the purl and knit stitch technique. The structure of the patterns is a determining factor for the knitting arrangement. Motif selection and placement may vary according to the knitter's experience and preferences.
Rize Hemşin Socks (T.R. Ministry of Culture and Tourism)
Production Requirement within Geographical Boundary
The first written source regarding Hemşin socks is the Trabzon Province Salnameleri (Yearbook) dated 1879. The historical connection and production tradition establish a reputational link between the product and the Hemşin district. Therefore, all processes related to the production of the socks must be carried out within the borders of the Hemşin district of Rize province.
Supervision and Control
The production and processing stages are supervised under the coordination of Hemşin Municipality. The supervisory board consists of experts from Hemşin Municipality and the Hemşin District Public Education Center Directorate. Inspections are carried out at least once a year, and also as needed or in cases of complaints.
The inspection process covers the product's adherence to the production method and finishing technique, as well as the correct use of the “Hemşin Çorabı” (Hemşin Socks) phrase and the designation of origin emblem. When necessary, support or services can be obtained from public and private institutions or relevant individuals. The registering institution has the authority to pursue legal processes related to the protection of rights.
