İspir is a district of Erzurum province, located in the Eastern Anatolia Region of Türkiye. Located northeast of Erzurum, in the Çoruh River valley, İspir stands out with its rich historical past, unique geographical structure, and cultural heritage. The district, located in the transition zone between the Black Sea climate and the continental climate, stands out with its natural beauties, plateaus, and historical structures. It was also established on natural and historical routes that connect Eastern Anatolia to the Eastern Black Sea coasts and the Caucasus, used for military and commercial purposes in various periods of history.

The Çoruh River, one of the fastest flowing rivers in the world, originates from İspir, and with its forest assets of 76,865 hectares, the district is Erzurum's district with the most forest land.

^{İspir (İspir Municipality)}

History

İspir and its surroundings, located on the historical passage routes connecting Eastern Anatolia to the Eastern Black Sea coasts and the Caucasus; throughout history, it has remained under the rule of many civilizations such as Hurrian, Urartian, Saka (Scythian), Medes, Persian, Roman, Byzantine, Sasanian, Umayyad, Abbasid, Seljuk, Ilkhanate, Karakoyunlu, Timurid, Akkoyunlu, Georgian Kingdom and Ottoman. In sources from the Urartian period, the region is referred to as "Kulka (Qulha)".

İspir, which came under Ottoman rule after the Çaldıran Campaign in 1514, gained sanjak status in 1515 and was attached to the Diyarbakır Beylerbeylik, and in 1520 to the Rum Eyalet. In 1535, it was attached to the newly established Erzurum Eyalet. According to the 1642 Avarız register, there were 12 Muslim and 17 non-Muslim households, along with 139 soldiers and 10 religious officials in the district.

In the 1835 population register, a total male population of 11,308 was recorded in 152 settlements, including the center, of which 10,691 were Muslim and 617 were non-Muslim.

İspir was registered as a sub-district (nahiye) in 1839. In 1880, it was attached to Bayburt; in 1888, it was re-attached to Erzurum center and gained kaza (district) status. Between 1892-1898, it had 143 villages. In 1895-96, a telegraph line was established, and in 1900, postal service between Bayburt and İspir began; in the same year, a new government building was constructed.

During World War I, İspir remained under Russian occupation between 1916-1918 and was re-integrated into Ottoman administration by the units of the 1st Caucasus Corps on February 25, 1918.

Geography

İspir is located 143 km north of Erzurum city center and has an area of 2,244 km². There are numerous mountains in the south and north of the district with elevations ranging between 2,400–3,900 m. In addition to the Kaçkars, Mescit Mountain (3,240 m), Deve Mountain (3,363 m), Sandık Mountain (3,186 m), Dilek Mountain (3,549 m) and Verçenik Mountains are important elevations.

The source of the Çoruh River is located within the district's borders. İspir, with 76,865 hectares, is Erzurum's district with the largest forested area.

Climate

İspir is located in a transition zone between continental and Black Sea climates and is generally under the influence of the continental climate. Milder winter conditions are observed compared to other districts of Erzurum. The fact that the north and south of the district are surrounded by high mountains increases local climate diversity.

As one progresses along the Çoruh Valley towards Yusufeli, the microclimate effect becomes more pronounced. In this area, it is possible to grow warm climate plants such as pomegranates, rice, and paddy. Furthermore, the region is located on the migration route of migratory birds and hosts many bird species.

^{İspir (İspir Mufti's Office)}

Population and Demography

According to the Turkish Statistical Institute (TUIK) Address-Based Population Registration System (ADNKS) 2024 data, the total population of İspir is 11,453 people. According to 2017 data, this number was 14,469. There has been a decrease in population over time. In addition to the district center, there are many rural neighborhoods, and a significant portion of the population is engaged in agriculture and animal husbandry. A part of the young population migrates to metropolitan cities.

Economy

The district economy is largely based on agriculture and animal husbandry. Mulberry and mulberry products (fruit leather, molasses, dried mulberry, etc.), and especially the geographically indicated “İspir Beans” are among the main sources of livelihood. In recent years, greenhouse farming, beekeeping, and artificial fishing activities have also been developing. Due to the limited agricultural areas, migrant labor and especially bakery are common in the district.

^{İspir Castle (İspir District Governorship)} 

Culture, Social Structure and Cuisine

Due to its location at the intersection of the Eastern Anatolia and Eastern Black Sea regions, İspir has a rich cultural structure. In the district, bar games unique to Eastern Anatolia and horon, unique to the Black Sea region, stand out among traditional dances. Tulum, drum, and zurna are the most common musical instruments. The region has a remarkable cultural synthesis with its folk literature, the tradition of improvised folk songs (atma türkü), and its cuisine. The culinary culture also bears the traces of this synthesis, with beans, meat dishes, and mulberry-based products being prominent.

The district contains numerous historical and natural sites. Among the prominent ones are:

• İspir Castle: Located on a dominant hill on the Erzurum road, it was built by the Saltukids.
• İspir Mosque: A structure from the Saltukid period, located in the district center.
• Tuğrul Şah Mosque: Built by Emir Atabey Erdem Şah between 1200-1225 in the name of Tuğrul Şah.
• Melik Halil Gazi Mosque: A mosque from the Seljuk period, located in the market center.
• Kadıoğlu Madrasa: Built by Kadızâde Mehmed Efendi, the Mufti of Erzurum, in 1725-1726.
• Elmalı Cave (Dungeon Cave): Located in Elmalı Neighborhood, 1.5 km from Madenköprü town.

In addition to these, hiking and climbing routes such as Yedigöller (Çamlıkaya), Taşlıca-Hotar, Ardıçlı-Devedağı, Sırakonaklar-Davalı Yayla-Kaçkar, and Çamlıca plateau also attract interest in the district. Archaeological remains such as Akkoyunlu Ruins, Numanpaşa Village Remains, Saltukid Tombs, Petekli Monastery, Sandık Castle, Maden Castle, and Cankurtaran Castle are present.