Keçecilik

Felting is a craft that involves the production of items through the felting of natural fibers such as sheep’s wool. Those who practice this trade are called felt master or feltmaker. Feltmaking is an ancient craft that extends from the steppes of Central Asia to the hans, bazaars, and village squares of Anatolia.

Felt is a traditional textile material formed when wool fibers adhere to one another under the influence of moisture, heat, and pressure, resulting in a non-woven surface. Originating in the harsh climatic conditions of nomadic life, this material acquired both functional and symbolic significance in Turkish culture through its use in tents, saddle covers, rugs, headgear, and clothing. With the migration of Turkish tribes into Anatolia, this craft adapted to settled life, developed artistic qualities, and became organized within the Ahi and guild systems.

Felt Products (AA)

Historical Background

According to written and archaeological evidence, the history of feltmaking reaches back to the kurgan culture of Central Asia. Figurative felt examples unearthed from the Pazyryk Kurgan demonstrate that this craft had already achieved both technical and aesthetic sophistication by the 5th century BCE. During the periods of the Huns, Göktürks, and Uyghurs, felt was used extensively—from tents and garments to ritual objects and ceremonial coverings. The transformation of felt into a symbolic object upon which rulers were seated during burial rites confirms that it was not merely a utilitarian item but also a potent symbol.

With the settlement of Turks in Anatolia following their victory at the Battle of Manzikert in 1071, feltmaking merged with local weaving traditions and became even more enriched. During the Seljuk and Ottoman periods, feltmaking acquired institutional structure through the Ahi and guild systems and served not only daily needs but also military equipment, religious coverings, and ceremonial attire. Evliya Çelebi recorded that feltmakers participated in craft processions in Istanbul, riding on horseback and throwing wool into the air. ^【1】 

Felt Production (AA)

Ahi Organization and Professional Ethics

The Ahi organization formed the foundation of production ethics in Anatolia. Within this structure, every individual progressed through the stages of apprenticeship, journeyman, and mastery, acquiring not only professional skill but also social responsibility. To earn the right to mastery, the “Şed Kuşanma Ceremony” was performed. During the Ottoman period, feltmakers produced under their own guilds and supplied felt to state institutions. Until the 18th century, it was customary to finish felts by boiling them in baths located in the At Pazarı and Yenibahçe areas.

Felt Production (AA)

Technical Processes and Production Environments

Felt production begins with the carding and cleaning of lamb’s wool. The wool is fluffed and separated fiber by fiber using a tool called a hallaç. A patterned base layer is then prepared, onto which motifs are arranged. In this process:

• Sepki / Dirgen: Used to spread the wool evenly in thickness.
• Desenlik: The initial felt layer onto which motifs are placed.
• Pevantlamak: The process of smoothing loose edges inward after the first pressing.
• Su Vermek: Sprinkling hot water onto the wool to initiate felting.

Felt Production (AA)

After the motifs are laid out, the wool is wrapped in cloth and tightly bound with rope to prepare it for pressing. The rolled felt is then pressed by foot, moving back and forth. In the second stage, the felt is beaten against the chest in a bath to ensure the fibers bond tightly. This process is called “cooking.” Traditional methods do not use soap.

Some essential tools used in feltmaking include:

• Hallaç: The tool used to fluff the wool.
• Tokmak: A mallet struck against a wooden frame to fluff the wool.
• Sepki: A tool made from walnut wood used to spread wool evenly across the surface.

Workshops were typically designed with earthen floors, wooden ceilings, no direct sunlight, and one open side facing the street. The shops in Gevraki Han in Konya and temporary production areas such as “kom” and “merek” in Ardahan reflect this traditional architecture.

Felt Production (AA)

Motifs and Symbolic Meaning

Felt is more than a covering; it is a cultural narrative. The motifs embroidered on it carry symbolic meanings:

• Mal Gözü: A symbol of protection against evil.
• Tik: Represents balance and order.
• Kaburga: Depicts strength and durability.
• Yürek: Conveys emotional attachment and loyalty.
• Alaca Kapı: Symbolizes transition and transformation.
• Cılga Tekir (Teker): Represents continuity and movement.
• Mihrap: Embodies spirituality and direction.
• Sığır Sidiği, Bukağı, Kaz Ayağı: Cultural motifs derived from traditional weaving patterns.

Motifs vary according to regional aesthetics and intended use. In Şanlıurfa, color harmony is prioritized, while in Ardahan, motif placement follows symmetrical spatial principles.

Embroidery Techniques and Regional Variations

Felt decoration can be applied either during production or after completion. Designs applied during production are called “döşeme nakışı,” while those added to finished felt are known as “el işleme nakışı.”

Decoration techniques vary by region:

• In Şanlıurfa, types such as Acem nakışı, göbek nakışı, and pul nakışı are prominent.
• In Ardahan, original motifs such as mal gözü, alaca kapı, tik, cılga tekir, and kaburga are applied.

Feltmaking in Social Life

In many regions, felt production has become a ritual. In Ardahan, spreading felt is not merely a technical activity but a festive community event marked by the atmosphere of a holiday. Accompanied by davul and zurna music, the “altın ömür halayı” dance is performed, inspired by the footsteps of the feltmakers. In Şanlıurfa, felt has inspired folk songs and proverbs.

Women are the unseen actors in feltmaking. They play active roles in wool cleaning, dowry preparation, and motif placement. Before marriage, young girls traditionally prepared two or three patterned felt rugs as part of their dowry.

Felt Products (AA)

Types of Felt and Their Uses

Felt types vary according to their intended use:

• Yer Yaygısı: Large-sized felt used as a floor covering, typically made with 7–15 kg of wool.
• Seki Örtüsü: Placed on wooden seating areas or wall bases indoors, featuring fine detailing.
• Kepenek: Used primarily by shepherds around Afyon and Iğdır, simple and waterproof.
• Eyer Keçesi: A functional felt placed under the saddle to protect the horse’s back; produced in every household in Ardahan.

Felt Kepenek (AA)

Feltmaking Today and Preservation Efforts

Since the 1980s, industrialization, rural-to-urban migration, and the decline of animal husbandry have weakened feltmaking. Many workshops have closed, and masters have turned to itinerant work. In Ardahan, production has ceased entirely. However, in provinces such as Konya, Afyon, Şanlıurfa, Isparta, Manisa, and İzmir, a few workshops still preserve the tradition. These masters are valued as living bearers of culture.

Laws introduced during the Republican era—the 1924 Trade and Industry Law and the 1949 Craft Associations Law—placed apprenticeship and mastery systems within a legal framework. Today, these processes continue in educational institutions under the Ministry of National Education, and vocational training programs supported by KOSGEB and local administrations contribute to the development of feltmaking.