Köşkerlik (Yemenicilik, Çarıkçılık)

Köşkerlik is the traditional craft of shoemaking and leatherwork. Yemenicilik, çarıkçılık, terlikçilik, mestçilik and boot production constitute this craft branch where various types of footwear are made. As a profession requiring manual skill and expertise, historical it holds significant importance. Köşkers have produced a wide variety of footwear worn by the general population and soldiers throughout centuries. This craft developed through the leatherworking and shoemaking knowledge brought by the Turkish migrations from Central Asia to Anatolia and became an integral part of Turkish culture.

Ayakkabılar/Çarıklar Produced by Köşkers (Source: Culture Portal)

Definition and Terminology of Köşkerlik

The term köşker is derived from the Persian word "keşfger" and refers to a person who makes footwear such as shoes, yemeni, çarık, terlik and mest. This craft entirely relies on manual labor and encompasses leather processing and shoe production in the absence of machinery. The products made by köşkers include various types such as the "tokalı Osmanlı yemenisi" worn on special occasions like wedding, engagements and holidays, and the "Fatih yemenisi" produced for daily use.

History of Köşkerlik and Shoemaking

The earliest traces of Turkish shoemaking are found in the čarık and boots discovered in kurgan excavations in Central Asia. The term "edik" found in early Uyghur texts is used in Anatolia as still common. The Persian-origin word "pabuç" became a key term following the Turkish settlement in Anatolia. From the 15th century onward, the word "ayakkabı" entered the language, and clear distinctions emerged between köşkerlik and kunduracılık.

Materials and Tools Used in Köşkerlik

Köşkers use leather from buffalo, cattle, sheep and goats in shoe production. The hides are treated with lime-based soil and leaves of the palamut tree, colored with natural dyes and softened with fine oils. Shoes are protected with beeswax to prevent water penetration. No machinery is used in the production of çarık and yemeni; all production processes are carried out by hand.

Labor and Production Process in Köşkerlik

The master shoemaker, owner of the workshop, cuts the leather, assembles the shoe components and gives the final shape. Journeymen and apprentices perform various tasks under the master’s supervision. Key tools used in shoe production include lasts, endaze, blocks, pazval, mushta and various hand tools. Shoes are specially designed according to different functions and uses. For example, types such as the "Montenegro çarığı" worn while working in the fields or the "tokalı palace yemenisi" worn in the palace are produced.

Köşkerlik and Social Structure

During the Ottoman period, köşkers were organized under a hierarchical building. The most authoritative figure was known as "Yiğitbaşı", while in the early years of the Republic the titles "kâhya" and "erkân ustası" were used. These individuals played a vital role in regulating the trade, resolving disputes and maintaining oversight among tradespeople. Additionally, köşkers organized production and sales processes and ensured adherence to professional standards.