Rize cloth, also known as "Feretiko," is a traditional hand-woven fabric with geographical indication registration number 98. Its main raw material is yarn obtained from the natural flax plant. Linen yarn primarily has a single-ply and twisted structure. If desired, the natural color of the yarn can be bleached to white, and it is possible to color it through various dyeing processes. Rize Cloth differs from other linen fabrics due to its fiber structure, production process, and characteristics dependent on climatic conditions.
Rize Cloth (Feretiko) (Ministry of Culture and Tourism)
Characteristics and Fiber Structure of the Hemp Plant
The hemp plant, the raw material of Rize cloth, has a grey-yellow, straight, dull appearance with fiber bundles that are longer and coarser than flax. Bundle length can be up to 2 meters. Fiber length varies between 1.5 cm and 4.5 cm. It has a remarkable structure in terms of strength among plant fibers. The fiber is resistant to rot and does not show elasticity. It gives off a cellulose smell when subjected to a burning test; when examined under a microscope, it exhibits a knotted or irregular fiber structure.
Obtaining It
Fiber bundles 1.8 m to 2.4 m long, obtained from the hemp plant, are separated by combing using flax-like techniques. Due to the low sunshine duration and high rainfall in Rize, the fiber is exposed to very little sunlight compared to other regions, which necessitates that Rize cloth can only be produced with yarns made from hemp species grown in this region. While female seeds are separated, male plants are uprooted one week before harvest. Male plants are softened by soaking them in water pools.
Production Area and Climate Conditions
The hemp plant required for Rize cloth is grown throughout the province of Rize. Especially humic-clay soils, humid climate, and abundant rainfall are key factors affecting the fiber yield and quality of the plant. The best quality is obtained in Rize's humid, less sunny climate, with an average of 100 sunny days throughout the year. This prevents the fiber from starching and makes it softer, finer, and more durable.
Production Process
Rize cloth production relies on traditional handcraft from hemp cultivation to the weaving process. The production process consists of the following steps:
- Hemp cultivation
- Hemp harvesting
- Separating fibers from the plant
- Softening the fibers by primitive beating methods
- Turning into yarn
- Processing the prepared yarns for weaving
- Weaving the product in various sizes (45x60 cm, 60x60 cm, 90x120 cm)
- Bleaching process if necessary
- Motif design and coloring
- Shaping the product according to its intended use
Structural Characteristics
The color of this fabric, called Feretiko, is generally dull. Its color can be whitened by bleaching. Thanks to the natural twist in the yarn structure, the product has a soft and fine texture. There are 18 warp and 20 weft threads per 1 cm². This density increases the lifespan and durability of the fabric.
Rize Cloth (Feretiko) (Ministry of Culture and Tourism)
Areas of Use
Rize cloth is traditionally used in underwear. It is especially preferred due to its sweat-absorbing and cooling properties. Additionally, home textile products such as tablecloths, towels, sheets, and similar items are also produced from mixed yarns blended with cotton or silk. Those decorated with colorful or patterned motifs can also be used for decorative purposes.
Inspection and Protection
Rize cloth production is overseen under the relevant geographical indication protection. The inspection is carried out by a five-person commission consisting of experts from Rize Girls' Vocational High School, Rize Public Education Center, İyidere Public Education Center, Provincial Directorate of Agriculture, and the private sector. Inspections are conducted regularly twice a year; additional inspections may also be carried out if deemed necessary.
