The Valide Sultans of Üsküdar

Üsküdar is a district of Istanbul unlike any other, distinguished by its steep slopes, fountains erected at nearly every street end, tombs, mosques, and the call to prayer still echoing across its squares. If you were to count the minarets you see from the moment you board the ferry at the waterfront until departure time, who knows how many centuries you would be witnessing… Before you stand the Mihrimah Sultan and Yeni Valide Camileri; beside them, Şemsi Paşa Mosque, also known as Kuşkonmaz Camii; behind them, Aziz Mahmud Hüdayi, guardian of the Bosphorus; the Baroque-style Ayazma; and Rumî Mehmet Paşa from the Fatih era.

“The Golden City” of Üsküdar is also the heir to the legacy of three great Ottoman valide sultans. Their külliyes, constructed in successive eras, are traditionally referred to as old, middle, and new. The first is the Atik Valide Sultan Külliyesi commissioned by Nurbanu Valide Sultan, the second is the Çinili Cami Külliyesi belonging to Kösem Valide Sultan, and the last is the Yeni Valide Külliyesi built by Gülnûş Emetullah Sultan.

Atik Valide Sultan Külliyesi

The mosque in the Toptaşı neighborhood of Üsküdar was commissioned by Nurbanu Valide Sultan, wife of Sultan Selim II and mother of Sultan Murad III. The külliye, completed between 1570 and 1579, originally comprised a mosque, medrese, tekke, sıbyan mektebi, darülkurra, darülhadis, tabhane, kervansaray, hamam, imarethane, darüşşifa, and fountains. It is believed that the design and construction of the mosque were carried out by Mimar Sinan, while later additions were completed by other architects, notably Davud Ağa, due to Sinan’s advancing age.

Approximately sixty years after the completion of this mosque, Kösem Valide Sultan built another külliye nearby in Üsküdar during the reign of her son, Sultan Ibrahim. To distinguish it from the newer complex, the prefix “atik,” meaning “old” in Arabic, was added to its name. Thus, the mosque became known as Atik Valide Sultan, Valide-i Atik, or Eski Valide. Evliya Çelebi, however, referred to it in his writings as “Orta Valide Sultan,” a name said to derive either from the sultan’s status or from the mosque’s central location within Üsküdar.^【1】 

Interior of Atik Valide Sultan Camii (Photograph: Neriman Sena Külünk)

The interior of the mosque is adorned with striking Iznik tiles. With dozens of windows illuminating its walls, it is nearly impossible to describe the vibrant interplay of colors when sunlight floods the space. Moreover, this mosque is one of only two in Istanbul believed to house the Hızır makam. According to tradition, Sheikh Abdülkadir El Hüseyni El Nakşibendi (d. 1738), a descendant of Hz. Abdülkadir Geylani, saw Hızır Aleyhisselam in the lower section of the minaret, on the right side of the mosque’s final congregation area. Sources note that devotees have long shown particular reverence for this spot.^【2】 

Man Reading the Quran in Atik Valide, Painting by Osman Hamdi Bey, 1875 (Gülcan Kaplan)

The darülhadis, darülkurra, imaret, and darüşşifa buildings within the külliye originally served their intended purposes. However, from the late 18th century onward, they were repurposed for various uses: first as a military barracks, then as an asylum, followed by a prison, and later as a high school. Today, this complex houses the Faculty of Letters at Fatih Sultan Mehmet University.

As you walk through the faculty, it is hard not to imagine the pleasure of studying history here. To sit in its cool courtyard and reflect that, for a time, prisoners such as Necip Fazıl, Nihal Atsız, and Nazım Hikmet were confined within these walls is strangely unsettling. Yet we can still take comfort in knowing that this area has been preserved and restored to its present state.

Çinili Cami Külliyesi

The külliye was commissioned by Mâhpeyker Kösem Valide Sultan, wife of Sultan Ahmed I and mother of Murad IV and Ibrahim I, between 1640 and 1648 during Ibrahim’s reign. It lies approximately 500 meters from Atik Valide Camii. Compared to the latter, this külliye is a much more modest structure. Historical sources refer to it as Orta Valide Camii, reflecting its chronological position between Atik Valide and Yeni Valide Camileri.

Çinili Camii, Entrance from Çinili Mescit Sokak (Photograph: Neriman Sena Külünk)

The külliye consists of a mosque, medrese, sebil, hamam, sıbyan mektebi, and fountain. From the outside, the complex spreads harmoniously over the uneven terrain.

The interior of the mosque is decorated with tiles in blue, navy, white, purple, green, red, and black. The harmony achieved inside is also reflected on the walls of the outer congregation area. The marble minbar, window lintels, and exquisitely detailed tiles demand careful attention to fully appreciate their craftsmanship—time must be taken to absorb them, provided you can gain access. While the outdoor congregation area is always open for prayer, it remains closed for most of the day except during call to prayer times.

Inscription on the Gate and Tilework in the Outer Congregation Area (Photograph: Neriman Sena Külünk)

The inscription above the mosque’s gate contains these verses by the poet Himmet:

“Always the grace of the exalted Valide Sultan

Her noble deeds, performed solely for the sake of God, are beyond measure

She endowed this mosque with numerous waqf properties

May the Lord bless her with divine favor

When completed, Himmetâ declared its date

May the devotion shown in this mosque be pleasing to the Almighty (H. 1050)”^【3】 

Yeni Valide Sultan Külliyesi

The final valide külliye in Üsküdar is the Yeni Valide Camii, located at the pier square. Built by Gülnûş Emetullah Valide Sultan, mother of Sultan Ahmed III during the Tulip Era, the mosque was completed in 1711. Like the others, this külliye is known as Yeni Valide or Valide-i Cedid, both meaning “New Valide.”

Yeni Valide Sultan Camii, Türbe, and Sebil (Photograph: Neriman Sena Külünk)

The külliye comprises a mosque, imaret, türbe, sebil, fountain, şadırvan, mektep, and muvakkithane. As you descend from Hakimiyet-i Milliye Caddesi, the türbe—resembling a birdcage—is the first structure on the left. Its design, along with every detail of the complex, reflects the elegance of the Tulip Era and the refined taste of its patron, the valide sultan. The sebil and fountain following the türbe, the staircase rising from the entrance, the fountain in the courtyard that resembles another birdcage, and the birdhouses mounted on the outer walls all bear the unmistakable imprint of their time.

Birdhouse on the Wall of Yeni Valide Camii (Nusret Çam)

Due to its central location, Yeni Valide Camii is crowded throughout the day, but this becomes especially pronounced during Ramadan. The courtyard teems with families; under the glow of mahya lights, flowers dripping from the fountain, balloons, sweetmakers, and children’s laughter evoke the very spirit of the “old Ramadan” that even we have forgotten. The experience of hearing the call to prayer echoed back and forth between Yeni Valide and Mihrimah Sultan Camileri is entirely unique.