Trabzon kazaziyesi is a handicraft created by wrapping very thin drawn gold or silver wires onto silk (silk) or nylon threads and transforming them into decorative items using various traditional knitting techniques. This production method is a geographical indication registered as a designation of origin and was registered by the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office on November 9, 2017. The application was submitted on November 8, 2016, and the registration application was made by the “Trabzon Jewelers and Watchmakers Chamber of Tradesmen”. Its geographical boundary is limited to Trabzon province.

^{Trabzon Kazaziyesi (Generated by Artificial Intelligence)}

Definition and Material Properties

Trabzon kazaziyesi is based on the principle of shaping wire, which is formed by wrapping 24, 22, 18, or 14 carat gold and 925 carat silver wires, 0.08–0.18 mm thick (80–180 microns), onto silk or nylon threads with the help of a spinning wheel, using different knitting techniques. The wires obtained by this method are brought to the thickness of a hair strand. The winding process is tight and spring-like. The thickness of the wire varies depending on how many layers of thread it is wrapped around and is a minimum of 0.3 mm. The wrapped wire is used in the production of various jewelry and decorative items. The application is entirely based on handcraftsmanship, and no welding process is used.

Method of Use

In Trabzon kazaziyesi products, it is obligatory for the “TK” stamp, which consists of the initials of the geographical indication, or a label bearing this phrase, to be visibly placed. A label is not required for products bearing the “TK” stamp. Labels must include the manufacturer's name, the type and fineness of the material used, and information indicating that the product was made using the Trabzon kazaziyesi technique.

Historical Background

The art of kazazlık existed in various regions of Anatolia during the Ottoman Empire. However, after the Republic, it gained continuity only in Trabzon. With Trabzon's inclusion in Ottoman territories in 1461, the shipment of raw silver extracted from Gümüşhane through Trabzon Port and Trabzon's commercial position played a significant role in the development of jewelry making. It is known that Yavuz Sultan Selim and Suleiman the Magnificent, who were princes in Trabzon during this period, worked in jewelry workshops.

Kazazlık techniques are found in some products dating back to the 16th century. In Evliya Çelebi's travelogues, it is stated that decorative items produced by Trabzon jewelers reached the Ottoman Palace. A court record from the 1600s shows that there was a trade area related to jewelry making, referred to as the "Kazalar Bazaar", and its ownership belonged to the Gülbahar Hatun Foundation. In the estate of a kazaz master who passed away in the 1750s, silk and ibrişim (fine silk thread) used in kazaziye production were recorded. In 1869, French painter Théophile-Louis Deyrolle's engravings of Trabzon featured jewelers, and in the 1890s, Şemseddin Sami's work "Kamusü’l-Alam" included information that jewelry making in Trabzon was at a good level.

Production Method

Trabzon kazaziyesi production is entirely based on handcraftsmanship. The production process is as follows:

Wire Winding: Gold or silver wire is wound onto silk or nylon thread with the help of a spinning wheel.
Wire Thickening: The thickness of the wire varies according to the number of thread layers used, and as a result of winding, it gains a flexible and durable structure.
Knitting Application: The thickened wire is knitted using various knitting techniques with the help of a sewing needle.
Assembly and Finishing: The produced pieces are joined by sewing with waxed nylon thread and a needle. The ends of the nylon thread are cleaned by burning them with a lighter.

Tools and Equipment

The main tools and materials used in kazaziye are:

Spinning Wheel: Enables the wire to be wound onto the thread.
Crochet Hook: Used in knitting processes.
Sarmaşka / Sarmaçka: Used in the openwork technique.
Silver / Gold wire and nylon / silk thread: Basic materials.
Needle-nose Pliers: Used for correction in places where the wire does not pass.
Scissors: Necessary at all stages.
Snail Shell Tooth: Used for polishing.

^{Trabzon Kazaziyesi (}^{Turkish Patent}⁾

Basic Knitting Techniques

The main knitting techniques used in kazaziye art are:

Herringbone Braid: It is the basic braid forming a chain. It is braided 2–6 knots wide. It is braided over steel wire, and then the wire is removed.
Openwork Braid: 20–25 micron silver wire is wound onto 5 layers of silk or nylon thread. It is especially used in necklaces and rosary tassels.
Short Slide: It is crocheted. It connects different techniques. Its cage structure is simple.
Long Slide: Similar to the short slide but has a more complex cage structure. It serves as a connector.
Ball Braid: Wire is braided over wooden or plastic beads. The cage must be properly formed. No gaps should be left.
Sworn Slide: This technique, known by only a few families in the past, is now taught in educational institutions.
Şemse (Love Knot): Inspired by Seljuk motifs and the sailor's knot. Used in jewelry.

Product Range

Initially limited to products such as necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rosary tassels, kazaziye applications are now also applied to items such as shoes, bags, belts, amulet holders, and coasters. Different knitting techniques can be used together or individually in decorations. Examples of products include whip tassels, headpiece tassels, shawl tassels, and cuff and shirt buttons.

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Marking and Labeling

Kazaziye products must have a stamp consisting of the letters “TK” or a “TK” label. If the “TK” stamp is applied directly to the product, no additional label is required. When a label is used, it must include the manufacturer's name, the type and fineness of the material, and information indicating that the product is Trabzon Kazaziyesi.

The TK stamp is defined by technical measurements.

^{Trabzon Kazaziyesi, “TK” stamp or “TK label” (}^{Turkish Patent}⁾

TK Stamp Technical Specifications

Top line of T letter: 1 mm
Left line of T letter: 0.38 mm
Right line of T letter: 0.48 mm
Middle long line of T letter: 1.7 mm
Bottom line of T letter: 0.45 mm
Middle long line of K letter: 1.8 mm
Middle lower/upper lines of K letter: 0.48 mm
Upper right long line of K letter: 1 mm
Lower right long line of K letter: 1.1 mm
Upper/lower right short lines of K letter: 0.50 mm

Supervision Mechanism

The authority responsible for supervising the compliance of Trabzon kazaziyesi products with registration conditions has been established under the coordination of the Trabzon Jewelers and Watchmakers Chamber of Tradesmen and Artisans. The institutions involved in the supervision process are:

T.R. Ortahisar District Governorship Public Education Center
Zübeyde Hanım Vocational and Technical Anatolian High School Directorate
T.R. Ministry of National Education General Directorate of Lifelong Learning Trabzon Maturation Institute

Inspections are carried out regularly at least once a year and in case of a complaint. Reports are submitted to the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office. Within the scope of the inspection:

Artisans' documents,
Compliance of products with quality standards,
Presence of "TK" stamp or label,
Compliance with production method,
Material quality and fineness,
Suitability of tools and equipment,
Accuracy of label information,
And whether sufficient information is provided to the consumer are checked.