The Diyarbakır woven gold bracelet is a distinctive gold bracelet, entirely handcrafted, characterized by its tightly woven and interlocking structure. It is produced in Diyarbakır province using 18, 22, and 24-karat gold wires processed to a fineness of 90 microns. The product was registered as a mahreç indication on June 13, 2023, under the Industrial Property Law No. 6769 and is recognized as a traditional handicraft with a reputation tied to its geographical origin.
Diyarbakır Woven Gold Bracelet (AA)
Distinctive Features
The Diyarbakır woven gold bracelet consists of 180 to 200 rectangular-cut pieces. Its seamless, interlocking structure is enriched with sun and rose motifs, featuring sharp and distinct lines. The bracelet’s clasp, known as the “key,” is composed of square teeth, while the rose-shaped section, referred to as the “marka,” is assembled in three parts and mounted onto the woven structure. This design ensures durability, allowing the bracelet to be used for many years without deformation.
Production Process
Production begins with pure gold of 1000 millesimal fineness (24 karat), 916 millesimal fineness (22 karat), or 750 millesimal fineness (18 karat). The gold is melted into bars, drawn into wires using wire-drawing machines, coated with beeswax and rolled to a thickness of 90 microns. Precision is ensured through micrometer measurements.
The gold wires are wound around mandrels and cut using a chisel. The 180–200 wire pieces are handwoven after setting up the “header,” a process that takes 3 to 5 hours. Bulging sections are smoothed using a hammer and anvil. The “marka” section is clamped in a vise, its edges filed and motifs are added before mounting. The “key” section, consisting of a lock wire and square teeth, is attached after the marka is mounted.
Rings are soldered to both ends of the woven structure to attach a chain. The bracelet is rounded, leveled, cleaned in hydrofluoric acid, sanded, and polished to a shine. Finally, it is dipped in gold solution to prepare it for sale.
Diyarbakır Woven Gold Bracelet (AA)
Geographical Context and Inspection
The production of the Diyarbakır woven gold bracelet is limited to the boundaries of Diyarbakır province. Its history is rooted in the region’s traditional handicraft heritage, and the production process requires high craftsmanship, establishing a strong connection between the product and its geographical origin.
Inspections are conducted at least annually under the coordination of the Diyarbakır Chamber of Commerce and Industry, with participation from experts of the Diyarbakır Jewelers and Goldsmiths Chamber and Diyarbakır Metropolitan Municipality. Inspections verify material suitability, adherence to the production method, piece count, motif design, and proper use of the mahreç indication.
