Mutaflık

Mutaflık is a traditional textile craft whose primary raw material is goat hair. The term “muytab,” derived from Persian words “mu” (hair) and “tab” (weaver), evolved over time into “mutaf” and came to denote both the artisan and the product. This term settled in meaning “something woven from goat hair” or “a man who weaves and sells goods from hair.” This craftsperson group, known locally as “mutaf” or “mutafçı,” was recorded in Ottoman archives as “muytap esnafı.” Products such as belleme, payvant, kebe, kolan, and gebre fall under the scope of mutaflık hairwork. ^【1】

Representative Mutaf Image (Generated by Artificial Intelligence)

Raw Materials and Preparation Process

The primary raw material in mutaflık is goat hair. In particular, the hair of goats that have reached one year of age, known as çebiç hair, is preferred for weft yarn (argaç) due to its soft texture. Male goat hairs, which are long and stiff, are generally used for warp yarn (eriş); female goat hairs are shorter in structure.

Hair shearing is carried out once a year, during May to July. After shearing using the traditional tool called kırklık, the hairs are combed on a hair comb to remove impurities such as dirt and debris. They are then stretched on a frame to achieve a uniform consistency. Once prepared for weaving, the hairs are twisted using a “çark” or locally called “çıkrık,” and subsequently undergo a tensioning process to enhance their strength.

Tools and Equipment Used

The main tools and equipment used in mutaflık are as follows:

• Çark (Çıkrık): Used to twist goat hairs into yarn.
• Mutaf Tezgâhı: A wooden tension-type loom, typically made from pine wood; approximately 250 cm wide and 300 cm long.
• Şimşire: Rods with notched surfaces used to create shed openings during weaving.
• Çözgü Kalıbı: A cylindrical device that facilitates the unwinding of warp threads.
• Gücü Kalıbı / Gücü Ağacı: Separates warp threads and is raised upward as weaving progresses.
• Cağ: A wooden tool used to open the shed between warp threads.
• Mutaf Tarağı: A metal-toothed, sturdy wooden comb used to pack the weft yarn tightly.
• Cımbar: A adjustable, pointed device that maintains the evenness of the weave width.
• Kirman (Eğirtmeç): A traditional tool used to impart twist to the hairs.

Weaving Technique and Motifs

Traditional motifs such as goose foot, bird’s eye, and mouse tooth were commonly used in the textiles. These motifs reflected both the aesthetic values and the local identity of the region.

Products and Uses

Due to their high durability, mutaflık products were primarily valued for transportation purposes. The range of products includes:

• Heybe
• Çuval
• At Torbası
• At Örtüsü
• Çadır

These products are constructed to be long-lasting and robust, suited to rural living conditions.

Decline of the Craft

With the widespread adoption of plastic sacks and industrial materials, interest in textiles made from natural goat hair has declined. Changes in lifestyle and technological advancement have caused mutaflık to cease being an economically viable occupation.