Söke Körüklü Çizmesi

The Söke Bellows Boot is one of the cultural heritage elements of the Aegean Region, occupying a unique position within both traditional craft practices and clothing culture due to its production techniques and formal characteristics. Made entirely by hand using natural materials such as calf leather, goat leather, and sole leather, this boot is defined by its original bellows constructions known as “baklava bellows” and “straight bellows.” In 2018, it was officially registered as a geographical indication under the Mahreç Mark system, and its production is now regulated exclusively within the boundaries of the Söke district.

Historical Origins

The presence of the Söke Bellows Boot in the region began after the population exchange, through Hüseyin Rıfat Oral (Usta Sağır), who brought the craft from Crete. Oral’s introduction of bootmaking to Söke led to its adoption particularly among local landowners and aristocrats. Factors such as year-round comfort, suitability for horseback riding, and the distinctive “creaking” sound produced while walking contributed significantly to its popularity.

From before the War of Independence onward, bellows boots became widespread among efes, eventually becoming an inseparable component of zeybek costumes. Usta Sağır’s original boot model featured a form known as “mixed bellows,” shaped by the natural creases of the bellows. In the 1950s, master craftsman Mehmet Yüksel interpreted this model and developed the distinctive contemporary “baklava” and “straight” bellows forms. These designs were disseminated by Söke masters to neighboring provinces and districts.

Technical Features

The distinguishing features of the Söke Bellows Boot are as follows:

• The upper and insole are made of calf leather, the lining of goat leather, and the sole and heel entirely of sole leather.
• A unique hand-stitching technique called “larezma” is used to join the upper to the insole; the bellows back is sewn using “saraç” stitching.
• Natural hardener called “çiriş” is applied between the leather layers; leather pieces known as “gıcırdak” are inserted between the sole and insole to produce a sound effect.
• Bellows are formed with creases spaced 3–4 cm apart and reaching a height of 46–47 cm. The straight bellows present a simple appearance, while the baklava bellows are shaped by compressing them top and bottom with a “danelye.”
• The sole and heels are secured using nails made from gürgen wood, fixed via the “crosswise wooden nail” technique.

Production Process

Production begins with a custom order. Foot measurements are taken, leather pieces are cut and stitched, then fitted onto a last. After the upper components are softened with water, the bulge, fort, and insole are completed using sole leather. The gıcırdak assembly, fixation of the sole leather, and heel elevation are carried out sequentially. After the bellows are shaped and creased, the boot is polished and made ready for wear.

Special tools used during production include:

• Danelye: Used to mold leather onto the last.
• Needles: Used to pierce holes for saraç and larezma stitches in curved and straight forms.
• Gamba: Determines the width of the bellows and shapes the bellows form.
• Katoş: A strap that secures the last to the craftsman’s knee.
• Sulistir, Raspa, Filo Knife: Special hand tools used in sole leather and leatherwork.

Geographical Indication and Oversight

The product, registered by the Söke Municipality, is protected under the Mahreç Mark system. Its geographical boundary is limited to the Söke district. An example label is affixed to the inner surface of each boot’s bellows to indicate its place of origin.

The production process and materials used are monitored by an eight-member oversight board coordinated by the Söke Municipality. Inspections are conducted every six months, with ad hoc inspections possible when needed. The craftsmanship involved in producing “baklava” bellows is subject to special scrutiny to ensure authenticity and quality.

Cultural Significance

The Söke Bellows Boot is not merely a footware item; it is regarded as a tangible representation of regional identity and efes culture. The gıcırdak sound asserts presence in space, the bellows creases provide an aesthetic posture, and the use of natural materials demonstrates the sustainability of local craftsmanship. This boot functions as a symbol within Söke’s cultural memory, preserving and sustaining the legacy of traditional handcrafts.