Valençay

Valençay is a protected AOP soft cheese from France, made exclusively from full-fat raw goat’s milk. It is recognized by its ash-coated grey rind and truncated pyramid shape. Its production employs techniques of coagulation, low-dose fermentation, and natural draining. During ripening, the cheese develops its characteristic aroma through surface moulds. In traditional production, the milk used is raw and full-fat goat’s milk and is not subjected to standardization. Before fermentation, the cheese undergoes a ripening phase and is obtained through lactic acid coagulation.

1. Fermentation: Fermentation is carried out using a low dose of cheese starter culture (presure).
2. Moulding (Moulage): The moulding process is performed with care to respect the texture of the curd. Traditionally, the curd is directly transferred into the mould without pressure, allowing spontaneous drainage; no pre-draining (pré-égouttage) or kneading is applied.
3. Ashing (Külleme): After removal from the mould, the cheese is salted and coated entirely with vegetable charcoal (cendré au charbon végétal). This charcoal coating gives the cheese its characteristic ash-coloured rind.
4. Ripening (Affinage): During ripening, the cheese develops a surface layer of moulds that enhance its distinctive qualities. Valençay becomes suitable for consumption from the 11th day of ripening onwards.

One of Valençay’s most distinctive features is its unique truncated pyramid shape. Historically, it is said that Valençay cheese originally had a long pyramid form. According to legend, Talleyrand, who resided at the Château de Valençay, had the top of the cheese cut off to avoid evoking memories of Napoleon’s defeat in Egypt. Following this event, the cheese adopted its present truncated pyramid form.

As an AOP-certified product, Valençay’s production is governed by strict regulations. However, between 17 March 2020 and 31 March 2021, due to market disruptions, logistical constraints, and supply limitations caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, temporary modifications were introduced to the production specifications. The primary aim of these changes was to ensure the continued production and commercialization of the cheese during the crisis, which coincided with the peak season for goat milk production.

Curd Freezing and Storage: Although the standard specification prohibits freezing the curd, during this period freezing and storage of the curd were permitted, and up to 50% of frozen curd could be reused in production. This allowed for the temporary removal from the market of significant quantities of raw material that could not be used due to insufficient demand.

Processing Outside the Geographical Area: Operations normally prohibited outside the designated geographical area—such as freezing and storing the curd and storing cheeses under modified atmosphere—were temporarily allowed to take place outside the region.

Storage Under Modified Atmosphere: The storage of fresh and ripening cheeses under modified atmosphere was permitted (normally prohibited). This allowed ripening to be temporarily halted, enabling a significant portion of cheese production to be temporarily taken off the market.

Ripening Duration: It was specified that the duration of storage under modified atmosphere would not be counted toward the minimum required ripening period.

Technical Definition Adjustments: To account for the possible use of frozen curd, temporary adjustments were made to the technical definition of production methods, particularly regarding moulding and draining procedures. For example, pre-draining was permitted when frozen curd was reintroduced. These temporary adjustments did not alter the cheesemakers’ other specialized knowledge or skills.