Aba

Aba is a term referring to a traditional fabric woven from animal fibers and the garments made from this fabric. It is defined as a thick textile product produced through weaving techniques. Historically, it has been one of the traditional upper garments. Its production is carried out within the scope of traditional weaving activities. Aba is considered among traditional clothing elements within folk culture.

Aba (Kahramanmaraş Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism)

Raw Materials and Structural Properties

The primary raw material used in aba weaving is sheep wool. In addition to sheep wool, animal fibers such as goat hair and camel hair are also used in production. These fibers are cleaned of foreign substances before weaving. The preparation process of raw materials includes cleaning and carding. The yarns used for weaving are obtained through traditional spinning methods. The types of fibers used are sourced in relation to regional livestock activities.

Aba has a thick woven structure. The woven surface consists of tightly spun yarns. The thickness of the fabric is related to the fiber properties of the yarns used. Post-weaving finishing processes ensure a smoother surface texture. Products made from this fabric are typically designed as collarless and sleeveless upper garments. Cutting patterns are determined according to the intended use. Yarn and embroidery applications are applied to the fabric surface. Varieties of aba differ in form and surface characteristics. These formal differences have emerged in connection with local production traditions.

Production Process and Weaving Techniques

Aba Weaving (Kahramanmaraş Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism)

Aba production is a multi-stage process beginning with the transformation of raw material into yarn suitable for weaving. During this process, fibers are cleaned and freed of impurities. The cleaned fibers are carded to make them suitable for weaving. Prepared fibers are then spun into yarn using traditional methods.

Weaving is carried out on traditional handlooms. On the looms, weft and warp yarns are arranged in a specific pattern to form the fabric surface. The techniques used during weaving determine the fabric’s thickness and weave density. After weaving is completed, the fabric undergoes compaction processes. Post-weaving finishing treatments ensure a smooth and even surface. The resulting fabric is cut according to its intended use and transformed into garments. Each stage of the production process is carried out based on traditional craft knowledge.

Varieties^【1】

Varieties of aba are classified according to the types of yarn used, weave density, and decorative applications. Color, yarn type, and local production traditions are decisive in this classification. Differences among varieties are related to the structure of the woven surface and yarn thickness. Traditionally named types are embedded within local weaving practices.

• Wool Aba (Boz Aba): A type of aba woven from sheep wool using the natural color of the wool. Today it is mostly preferred by shepherds and is also known as "shepherd’s aba."
• Navy and Red Aba: Types of aba woven in Gaziantep and its surroundings, named according to their color characteristics.
• Black Aba: A type of aba woven in Gaziantep and its surroundings, made from a blend of wool and hair.
• Maraş Aba: A type of aba worn with long length, no sleeves, and open front. Kahramanmaraş aba has fewer motifs. In Kahramanmaraş, red aba, boz aba, ibrişimli red aba, and güreş aba are among the commonly used varieties.
• Güreş Aba: Among the most commonly used types of aba in Kahramanmaraş. It is worn in aba wrestling events.
• Taşçı Aba: A short-length aba woven in white, striped, and patterned designs. Historically made entirely of wool, today these abas are woven from wool and cotton. In the past, stone workers used aba for its durability while carrying stones.
• Humus Aba: A black aba with elaborate motifs on the front and back panels, and plain weaving below the waist, extending to knee length. Each motif on it is called a "sandıklı." An aba with nine or more sandıklı motifs was traditionally worn by wealthy nobles. Abas with fewer than nine sandıklı motifs were worn by villagers on special occasions such as weddings and ceremonies. When wearing a Humus aba, a white or black wool belt is tied around the waist.
• Kilim Aba: A type of aba woven since ancient times. During periods when metallic thread was unavailable, kilim abas were worn in fields, for daily use, and at weddings. Kilim abas are woven from wool yarn using kilim weaving techniques. The collar is made in a dominant collar style, the sleeves are half-length, and it is worn like a jacket.

Uses of Aba Weavings

Bag Aba (Kahramanmaraş Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism)

In the past, aba weavings were worn as outer garments for daily use and formed part of the regional attire used in rural life during everyday activities. Today, abas are used in folk dance costumes and aba wrestling events. ABA WRESTLING is among the oldest known wrestling styles in Turkish culture. Additionally, bags, tobacco pouches, and vests are produced from aba weavings upon order.

Traditional Production and Its Continuation Today

Aba production is a craft activity carried out within the framework of traditional weaving. Weaving operations are performed on handlooms. Those involved in production are artisans with expertise in weaving. Knowledge and skills related to production are transmitted from master to apprentice through practical training.

Today, aba weaving continues in specific settlements as part of traditional handicrafts. These practices are addressed within the framework of cultural heritage and promoted through local events. Abacılık activities are included among practices associated with traditional weaving and clothing.