Ayvalık

Ayvalık is a tourist and historical important district of Balıkesir Province in northwestern Türkiye. Located at the westernmost point of Balıkesir on the coast of the Aegean Sea, Ayvalık became an important trade and maritime center from the Ottoman period onward and strengthened its economic structure in the 19th century through olive oil production. Ayvalık has a relatively small population during winter months but experiences a significant population increase during write seasons due to tourism. Throughout history, this region has been home to various civilizations and has been on UNESCO’s Tentative List of World Heritage Sites since 2017.^【1】

History

Ancient Era

In ancient times, the Ayvalık Islands were known as Hekatonisa. The largest of these islands, Nesos (today known as Cunda or Alibey Island), was named in honor of Apollo. In this region, also known as the Islands of Apollo, important ancient settlements included Chalkis, Pordoselene, and Kydonia besides Nesos. Ancient sources frequently mention Chalkis, Pordoselene, and Nasos, while the most significant known information about Kydonia comes from the Roman writer Pliny, who recorded the presence of a hot spring there. Chalkis and Pordoselene were eventually abandoned, but Kydonia and Nesos survived into the present day as Ayvalık and Cunda (Alibey Island).

Although no large-scale archaeological excavation has been conducted in the area believed to correspond to ancient Kydonia, artifacts recovered from the region bear traces of the Hellenistic (330–30 BC) and Roman (30 BC–AD 395) periods. Archaeologists believe the city reached its peak during the Roman era and gradually lost its importance during the Byzantine period. Over time, the settlement shifted toward the foothills of İlkkurşun Hill in Ayvalık, which became the region’s center.

Byzantine Period

During the Byzantine Empire, Ayvalık gained prominence as one of its religious centers. The Church of Taxiarchis and monasteries in the region were constructed during this period and became significant religious structures. In the Byzantine era, Ayvalık occupied a strategically strategic position for sea trade.

Ottoman Empire Period

During the Ottoman Empire, Ayvalık began to take its present form between 1430 and 1440. Initially, a hill overlooking the harbor was fortified, and during Ottoman campaigns against the Roman Empire, a naval base was established on Alibey Island. With the settlement of migrants from Greek within the region, the town rapidly developed and became a commercial center under Ottoman rule.

The earliest document mentioning Ayvalık in Ottoman archives is a firman dated 1772, believed to have been issued by Cezayirli Gazi Hasan Pasha, who returned after the 1770 Çeşme Battle and later grand vizier. From 1789 onward, Ayvalık became one of the regions in Ottoman territory where non-Muslims lived in autonomous numbers. However, following the Greek Uprising of 1821, its autonomy ended and the area was largely depopulated; in 1840 it was reorganized as a district under the Karesi Sanjak. Although some Greeks were permitted to return, Ayvalık failed to regain its former vitality.

According to Ottoman census records, in 1891 the town’s population of 21,666 consisted of 21,486 Greeks and 180 Turks. By the early 20th century, Ayvalık had grown into a city with a population of 30,000, developing in connection with regional trade. Products such as olive oil, beeswax, wine, and soap were exported, while sugar, coffee, wool, and cotton textiles were imported. Consulates from France and Austria-Hungary operated in the town, and institutions such as the Ottoman Bank and the Bank of Athens established a presence.

The Greek Uprising of 1821 and Its Aftermath

After the Greek residents of Ayvalık joined the Greek War of Independence in 1821, the Ottoman administration largely depopulated the region. Although some Greeks were later allowed to return, the town never fully regained its former vibrancy.

The 1923 Population Exchange

Under the terms of the Treaty of Lausanne, the 1923 population exchange resulted in the departure of Ayvalık’s Greek population to Greece and the resettlement of Turkish populations from various parts of Anatolia. This migration caused profound changes in Ayvalık’s demographic and cultural structure.

Republican Era and Present

After the proclamation of the Republic, Ayvalık continued as a coastal village whose economy relied on agriculture and fishing. Beginning in the 1980s, the development of tourism transformed its economic structure, making tourism one of its primary livelihood sources. In 2017, Ayvalık was included on UNESCO’s Tentative List of World Heritage Sites.

Geography

Ayvalık is an Aegean coastal district of Balıkesir Province in Türkiye, situated directly opposite the island of Lesbos. The region is rich in pine forests and olive groves. To the west lies the Aegean Sea, to the northeast lies Gömeç, and to the south lie the districts of Dikili and Bergama, both belonging to İzmir Province. Ayvalık’s coastline is indented with headlands and coves that form natural harbors. The district’s coastline along the Aegean Sea is approximately 34 kilometers long.

Ayvalık, known for its natural beauties such as the Şeytan Sofrası, is separated from the Greek island of Lesbos in the northern Aegean by the Mytilene Strait. The town of Mytilene, the administrative center of Lesbos Island, is visible to the naked eye from Ayvalık.

Climate

Ayvalık lies under the influence of the Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and mild, rainy winters. Average summer temperatures range from 24 to 34 °C, while winter conditions remain mild. Westerly imbat winds cool the district during summer months, and in certain periods, meltem winds are also observed. Cool breezes from the direction of Mount Kaz are occasionally felt in the district.^【2】

Islands

Ayvalık is a region composed of numerous islands of varying sizes. Twenty-two island belong to the district. The largest of these, Alibey (Cunda) Island, has been connected by bridges since 1964 to Lale Island and from there to the district center. One of these bridges holds the distinction of being Türkiye’s first strait bridge. In 1995, a decision was made to designate all Ayvalık Islands except Alibey Island as a national park and close them to settlement.

One of the islands with historical and touristic significance is Tımarhane Island. During the Ottoman period, it is said that Greeks from Ayvalık who consumed excessive alcohol were sent to this island to sober up under its strong winds. For this reason, the island gradually came to be known as Tımarhane Island. Additionally, many smaller islands such as Spoon, Poyraz, Kamış, Büyükkuruada, and Güvercinada are among Ayvalık’s natural attractions.^【3】

Population

Ayvalık has a small coast population during winter months, but experiences a substantial increase during summer due to tourism. The arrival of seasonal residents and tourists causes the population to temporarily multiply several times over. As of 2025, the population stands at 75,126.^【4】

Economy

Agriculture and Industry

Ayvalık’s economy is largely based on agriculture and tourism. The most significant agricultural activity in the district is olive cultivation, with approximately 70 percent of the land covered in olive groves. Of the 110 million olive trees in Türkiye, about 2.5 million are located within Ayvalık’s boundaries. Olives serve not only as a food source but also as a key raw material for soap and olive oil industries. The district’s industry facilities focus on olive oil and soap production. In addition, cotton, pine nuts, and mandarins are also cultivated. The grape variety grown in Bağyüzü Village is one of the region’s well-known products. In recent years, Turfanda vegetable farming and Kozak pine honey production have also gained importance.

Fishing is another cornerstone of Ayvalık’s economy. Due to its coastline on the Aegean Sea, fishing is highly developed in the district. Local fish restaurants are popular destinations for both residents and tourists.

Tourism

Tourism is one of Ayvalık’s most important economic sectors. Natural beauty, historical structures, and coastal tourism play major roles. Natural viewpoints such as Şeytan Sofrası attract both local and foreign tourists, while the district center’s former Greek houses and historical buildings contribute to cultural tourism. Sea tourism is particularly significant at Sarımsaklı Beaches and on Alibey Island.

A 1994 study identified 363 historical building in the district dating from 1842 to 1914. In recent years, Ayvalık has also attracted day-trippers from the Aegean Islands. Particularly, tourists from Greece’s Lesbos Island frequently visit Ayvalık for shopping. The weekly market established every Thursday in Ayvalık center has become one of the most popular attractions for Greek tourists. This growing tourism activity has also led to economic competition between Ayvalık and neighboring districts.

Culture

Cuisine

Ayvalık is also notable for its cuisine. One of its most famous local dishes is the Ayvalık tost, made with sucuk, kaşar cheese, pickles, mayonnaise, and ketchup. Additionally, the sweet dish Höşmerim, common throughout the Balıkesir region, is also widely consumed in Ayvalık. Rich in seafood, Ayvalık particularly favors papalina (çaça) fish, which is grilled or fried in olive oil with flour. Olive oil-based dishes form the foundation of Ayvalık cuisine, while innovative flavors such as olive oil ice cream have recently attracted attention.

Cultural and Natural Attractions

• Sarımsaklı Beaches: A 12-kilometer stretch of beaches located in the Küçükköy neighborhood of Ayvalık.
• Alibey Island (Cunda Island): The only island among the Ayvalık Islands open to settlement. Accessible by road via bridges constructed in 1964.
• Ayvalık Islands: An archipelago with Alibey Island as its largest member, designated a national park in 1995; all islands except Alibey Island are closed to settlement.
• Şeytan Sofrası: A natural viewpoint located on one of Ayvalık’s high hills, offering views of all the Ayvalık Islands and Lesbos Island. It is believed that the footprints of the Devil are preserved in the ancient lava deposits here.

Mosques and Churches

Ayvalık is notable for its historical mosques and churches:

• Agia Paraskevi Monastery: Only a small portion of this monastery on Tımarhane Island remains. Legends claim that the tomb of the Virgin Mary is located here.
• Saatli Mosque (Agios Yannis Church): Located in the district center, this building was originally a church and was converted into a mosque in 1928.
• Taksiyarhis Church: Built in 1873, its bell was used for communication during World War II and has been identified as one of the largest bells in the world.
• Hamidiye Mosque: Constructed in the second half of the 19th century by Sultan Abdülhamid II, it is built from red stone.
• Ayazma Church: Built in 1890, its name is believed to derive from the holy water inside. Constructed in Neo-Classical style, the building was used for a time as an olive oil factory and has since been expropriated for conversion into a museum.