Fava of Santorini

Fava Santorinis (Φάβα Σαντορίνης) is a protected designation of origin (PDO) product derived from the seeds of the flowering plant Lathyrus clymenum L., cultivated on eight small islands in the Cyclades of southern Aegean Sea, Greece. This PDO status guarantees that all stages of production, from sowing to packaging, take place in this specific region using thousands of years of local methods.

Historical Origins and Archaeological Findings

The use of the term “Fava” appears in fragments of a lost tragedy by Aeschylus dating to the 6th–5th centuries BCE. However, the historical origins of Fava Santorinis can be traced back another 1,000 years beyond this literary record, to a major geological event in the 16th century BCE.

In the 16th century BCE, one of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history occurred on the island of Santorini. The eruption dramatically altered the island’s geography and forced the local population to abandon the area. One of the largest abandoned settlements, the Minoan city of Akrotiri, was buried under a thick layer of ash and volcanic debris.

Thousands of years later, archaeological excavations revealed that a large portion of the city had been preserved. Among the numerous works of art and artifacts uncovered, researchers identified seed remains belonging to Lathyrus clymenum L.. Evidence indicates that this plant was harvested and ground for consumption prior to the eruption.

After the eruption, people who returned to the island resumed cultivating Lathyrus clymenum L., one of the few crops able to thrive in the volcanic soil. Thus, Fava Santorinis production became a staple food for the islanders and endured through time, increasing in popularity. In 2010, the European Union recognized this unique heritage by granting Fava Santorinis Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status.

Production Area and Cultivation

The production area of Fava Santorinis is limited to a small group of islands within the Cyclades. This group consists of eight islands: Santorini (also known as Thira) and seven surrounding islets—Thirasia, Palea Kameni, Nea Kameni, Aspro (Aspronisi), Christiani, and Askania.

The region’s climate is characterized by more than 200 sunny days per year and the influence of the meltemia, the dry northerly winds of the Aegean Sea.

Plant Adaptation and Environmental Conditions

Lathyrus clymenum L. is a climbing plant with bright crimson petals featuring a purple or lilac tint. Although it grows wild throughout the Mediterranean, it is cultivated as an agricultural crop only in this specific island group. The ability of this plant to thrive under such harsh environmental conditions is due to the following adaptive mechanisms:

1. Wind Resistance: The plant’s twining stem allows it to cling to surfaces, helping it withstand the strong meltemia winds.
2. Soil Composition: The islands’ soil is volcanic, rich in pumice and lava deposits but poor in organic matter and essential inorganic nutrients such as potassium or nitrogen. The plant is able to grow in this nutrient-poor soil due to its ability to fix atmospheric nitrogen.
3. Water Absorption (Xerophilous Traits): Terrestrial water sources on the islands are minimal or nonexistent. Lathyrus clymenum L. is a xerophilous plant capable of surviving the desert-like arid conditions. It absorbs the moisture it needs from humid sea air through osmosis. It is noted that this specific water absorption process contributes to the plant’s high sugar content.

Traditional Production Methodology

Despite these challenging environmental conditions, a specialized expertise has developed over thousands of years to ensure a stable harvest, and most stages of production are still carried out by hand.

• Sowing: Traditionally, sowing takes place in mid-winter. Some farmers still observe the custom of planting their first seeds on December 21, the winter solstice.
• Drying: Harvested seeds are dried under the sun of the Aegean.
• Storage (Aging): Dried seeds are placed in special storage pits carved into volcanic rock, known as kanaves. These unique storage sites provide ideal aging conditions by protecting the seeds from pests and ensuring they remain sufficiently hard for milling.
• Milling: After aging, the seeds are processed in stone grinding mills. During this process, the husks are removed and the seeds are separated from their cotyledons.
• Packaging: The flattened yellow discs resulting from milling are swiftly packaged to prevent damage from moisture, pests, and disease.

When cooked, this final product offers a velvety texture and a sweet flavor and is used either as a base for various dishes or as a meze.