Kelkit Zilli Kilim

Kelkit Zilli Kilim is a handwoven artistic product unique to the Kelkit district of Gümüşhane and represents a cultural heritage passed down through generations. Made from 100% wool, 100% root dye, and 100% kirman yarn, this kilim was officially registered on 21 June 2019 under Industrial Property Law No. 6769 as a geographical indication. Produced within the boundaries of Kelkit district using local craftsmanship and traditional techniques, this product is registered by the Kelkit Subprovince.

Kelkit Zilli Kilim (AA)

Definition and Characteristics

The Kelkit Zilli Kilim is a handcraft woven on looms by master artisans using wool yarn twisted with kirman. Its name derives from the term “zilu,” referring to its long and fluffy texture, which over time evolved into “zilli kilim.” Smaller versions are called “ziliçe.” Distinctive features include a flat-weave technique and geometric patterns formed through intricate designs. Weaving is performed using a wrapping method with three weft threads over one warp thread, without relying on fixed warp pairs. The interior and exterior parts of the motifs are filled with contrasting colors to create a rich visual effect.

Technical Specifications

• Material: 100% sheep wool, kirman yarn, root dye.
• Warp Yarn: 100% wool, typically in its natural color.
• Weft Yarn: Wool yarn dyed with root dyes; red is the most common color.
• Material Consumption:
• • Warp: 450 g/m²
  • Weft: 1300 g/m²
• Motifs: Geometric forms such as kara nakış, ger, kurbağacık, eğri zincir, beş fırlam, and çerçeve.
• Color Arrangement: The verev (diagonal) pattern is frequently preferred.

Production Process

The Kelkit Zilli Kilim is woven on stretching looms. In these looms, the upper and lower rollers remain fixed while the warps are stretched using lateral support sockets. As weaving progresses, the kilim is rolled downward. The primary tools and materials used in production include:

• Stretching Loom: Composed of a warp iron, power iron, varangelen board, lateral supports, and a tension adjustment mechanism.
• Kirkit: Used to compress and straighten the weft threads.
• Scissors: Used for cutting threads.
• Stick (Wooden Pin): Helps organize the warp threads and facilitates weft passage.
• Wool: The primary material for both warp and weft threads. Warps are typically left in their natural color while wefts are dyed with root dyes.

Kelkit Zilli Kilim (AA)

Warp Preparation

The warp is prepared on the loom as a single thread:

1. The thread is tied to the warp iron and wound around the loom to create the desired number of warp threads.
2. The warps are wound evenly and under consistent tension.
3. The varangelen board divides the warps into two groups to form the shed.
4. The power threads are wound around the power iron to prepare the shed formation.

Thread Dyeing

Weft threads are colored using plant-based root dyes. Common dye sources include red root, palamut, oak acorn, walnut shell, saffron, cehri, labada, mint, karamuk, onion, and hazelnut shell. Mordants such as alum, vinegar, lemon salt, and oak acorn are used to fix the colors.

• Materials: 150–250 g alum per 1 kg wool, 40 liters of water.
• Process: Alum is dissolved in warm water. Wool is soaked for 3–4 hours, then boiled and left to cool.
• Materials: 1 kg wool yarn, 1 kg root dye, 200 g alum, 40 liters of water.
• Process:
• • The root dye is ground into powder and placed in a cloth bag.
  • The mordanted threads are placed in a pot and dyed at 70°C for 24 hours.
  • The threads are washed in soapy water. For a bright red, ammonia may be added; for orange, marigold may be added.

Cultural and Geographic Context

The Kelkit Zilli Kilim is an integral part of the cultural identity of the Kelkit district, with all stages of production taking place within its geographic boundaries. Local artisans preserve and transmit traditional knowledge and skills across generations, sustaining this art form. The motifs and weaving techniques reflect the historical and cultural fabric of the region.

Monitoring and Protection

The quality standards of the Kelkit Zilli Kilim are monitored by a supervisory body composed of representatives from the Kelkit Subprovince, the Kelkit District Public Education Center, and the Kelkit Kilim Preservation Education Culture Social and Mutual Aid Association. Inspections are conducted annually or in response to complaints. During inspections, compliance with the requirement that the kilim be made from 100% wool, root dye, and kirman yarn, as well as the accuracy of the motifs, is verified.