Kemaliye Gazenne Weave

Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving, also known as Eğin Gazenne Weaving, is a traditional textile art unique to the Kemaliye district of Erzincan. Produced on shuttle looms using 100% cotton yarn, this fabric is distinguished by colorful vertical stripe patterns called “gazenne.” Since Kemaliye was historically known as Eğin, both names are used interchangeably to refer to this weaving. The fabric is used in the production of various items such as henna dresses, garments, peshtamals, pillows, sheets, tablecloths, and shawls, and constitutes an important part of the region’s cultural heritage.

^{Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving} (AA)

Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving is a fabric produced on shuttle looms using 100% cotton yarn. Its most distinctive feature is the colorful vertical stripe patterns known as “gazenne.” These patterns are typically in maroon and navy blue but may also incorporate other colors such as purple, yellow, red, and green depending on the intended use. The fabric is produced in dimensions of approximately 90 cm x 190 cm for peshtamals and 90 cm x 400 cm for other products. For peshtamal production, 20/2 cotton yarn is used, while 40/1 and 40/2 yarns are preferred for other items. These characteristics enhance both the durability and aesthetic appeal of the fabric.

The production of Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving is carried out using traditional methods on shuttle looms. The process consists of the following stages:

1. Yarn Preparation: 100% cotton yarn wound on bobbins is placed on the loom’s warp beam. This section ensures that the warp threads are evenly tensioned, parallel, and aligned. Warp threads are arranged according to desired colors, passed through a reed, and wound onto the lease rods.
2. Warping: The warp threads wound on the lease rods are transferred to the loom and subjected to warping to maintain consistent tension. The threads are first passed through the heddles and then individually through the reed. The reed determines the width of the fabric.
3. Weaving Process: Bobbins prepared using a bobbin-winding machine are inserted into the shuttles. The shuttles are moved through the loom’s hand and foot controls, causing the warp threads to alternate between upper and lower positions. As the shuttle passes through these threads, the fabric is formed. The warp threads run lengthwise while the weft threads run crosswise.
4. Beating and Gazenne Formation: The final weft thread is moved through the reed to create the gazenne stripe (beating process). The weft threads are compacted between the heddles and the fabric by shuttle movement, resulting in the emergence of the gazenne patterns.
5. Warp Types: Single or double warp is used in weaving. Single warp produces fabric measuring 90 cm x 190 cm, while double warp produces fabric measuring 90 cm x 400 cm.

^{Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving} (AA)

Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving has a long history and plays a central role in the culture and economy of the Kemaliye (Eğin) district. Produced using traditional methods, this weaving features colorful and striped patterns that reflect the region’s aesthetic values. This craft serves as an important source of livelihood for local artisans, contributes to the economic vitality of the area, and ensures the continuity of its cultural heritage.

Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving has been officially registered as a geographical indication under Law No. 6769 on Industrial Property by the Kemaliye Municipality. The registration process, initiated on 26 January 2023, was formally completed on 12 September 2023. This registration preserves the unique connection of the weaving to the Kemaliye district and safeguards its authenticity. The exclusivity of the gazenne patterns to this geographical area strengthens the product’s association with Kemaliye.

^{Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving} (AA)

To maintain quality and authenticity, the production of Kemaliye Gazenne Weaving is regularly inspected. Inspections are conducted by a three-member inspection board coordinated by the Kemaliye Municipality, comprising representatives from the Erzincan Provincial Implementation Center, the Kemaliye Chamber of Tradespeople and Craftsmen, and one expert from the municipality. Inspections are carried out annually, with additional inspections conducted as needed.