Tokat Dive Weaving

Tokat dive weaving is a traditional hand-weaving textile production technique with deep historical roots specific to the province of Tokat. This weaving art is known for producing fine, durable fabrics using high-quality cotton yarns. The fabric is woven on specially designed looms using a regional method known as “dive.” Representing a tradition spanning from the 16th century to the present day, Tokat dive weaving is recognized as an original craft product reflecting the cultural heritage of the region. It was officially registered under number 1778 on 22.09.2025 as a geographical indication.

Tokat dive weaving is manufactured entirely from 100 percent cotton yarns, with natural dyes used for coloring. Distinctive features of the fabric include prominent striped patterns and rich motifs on its surface. It stands out for its softness, high ergonomic durability, and robust structure. Known for its comfort and durability, this product is suitable for both decorative home textiles and functional use as apparel.

The production process of Tokat dive weaving is a traditional craft method requiring expertise and meticulous execution of each stage. The main stages are as follows:

• Warp Preparation and Length Calculation: The warp threads, which form the foundation of the fabric, are wound onto the loom in a manner suitable for weaving. The warp length is determined based on the desired fabric length, shrinkage allowance, and fringe allowance. An additional weaving allowance of 12 percent is added for thick yarn weaves and 8 percent for fine yarn weaves. In Tokat dive weaving, 22 warp threads are used per 1 cm.
• Warp Winding: The warp yarn is wound on a device called a “dolap,” consisting of two nested rectangular frames. Once the desired length is reached, the yarn is crossed and tied to prevent tangling, then cut and prepared for transfer to the loom.
• Threading: The warp threads are passed through the heddles of the reed and fixed onto the weaving beam.
• Weft Preparation: Weft yarns are wound onto bobbins according to the color requirements of the weaving pattern. These bobbins are then passed through the warp threads using a shuttle.
• Weaving: After the warp is mounted on the loom, the weaver begins weaving by operating foot pedals. The weaving process is carried out through the cyclic repetition of three fundamental movements:
• • Shed Opening: The warp threads are separated into two layers using the pedals to create a tunnel through which the shuttle can pass.
  • Shuttle Insertion: The weft yarn, carried by the bobbin-equipped shuttle, is passed through the shed.
  • Beating-Up (Tefe Vurma): The weft yarn is pushed toward the edge of the fabric using the reed to compact it.
• Fabric Winding: The woven fabric is pulled from the weaving area and wound onto the take-up roller.

Weaving continues with yarns matching the planned pattern and colors, maintaining a weft density of 18 picks per 1 cm. All these production stages must be carried out within the geographical boundaries of the province of Tokat, due to the product’s protected status.

The geographical boundary for Tokat dive weaving is defined as the province of Tokat. Due to its deep-rooted tradition, production method, and the specialized skill required, all production, processing, and related activities must be conducted within this designated geographical area.

Compliance with the registration conditions for Tokat dive weaving is monitored by a control body established under the coordination of the Tokat Provincial Directorate of National Education. This body consists of three members, each an expert appointed by the Tokat Provincial Directorate of National Education, the Tokat Provincial Directorate of Industry and Technology, and the Tokat Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism. Inspections may be conducted annually on a regular basis, or at any time when deemed necessary or in response to complaints.

The criteria applied during inspections are as follows:

• Appropriateness of raw materials used (e.g., yarns).
• Compliance with the specified production method.
• Proper use of the designation “Tokat dive weaving” and the geographical indication emblem.

The control body may consult experts or institutions during inspections. The Tokat Provincial Directorate of National Education, as the registering authority, is responsible for managing legal procedures.