Trabzon Kazaziyesi

Trabzon Kazaziyesi is a traditional craft that involves winding extremely fine gold or silver wires onto silk or nylon thread and transforming them into ornamental items using various traditional weaving techniques. This production method has been registered as a geographical indication under its name of origin and was officially registered on 9 November 2017 by the Türk Patent ve Marka Kurumu (Turkish Patent and Trademark Office). The application was submitted on 8 November 2016 by the Trabzon Kuyumcular ve Saatçiler Esnaf Odası (Trabzon Goldsmiths and Watchmakers Craftsmen’s Chamber). The geographical boundary is limited to the province of Trabzon.

Trabzon Kazaziyesi (Generated by Artificial Intelligence)

Definition and Material Characteristics

Trabzon Kazaziyesi is based on winding gold or silver wires with a thickness of 0.08–0.18 mm (80–180 microns) in 24, 22, 18, or 14 karat gold or 925 sterling silver onto silk or nylon thread using a spindle. The resulting wire is then shaped using various weaving techniques. Through this method, the wires are reduced to the thickness of a human hair. The winding is tight and spiral-shaped. The thickness of the wire varies depending on the number of thread layers wrapped around it and must be at least 0.3 mm. The wound wire is used in the production of various jewelry and ornamental items. The entire process relies entirely on manual craftsmanship and does not involve soldering.

Usage Format

Products of Trabzon Kazaziyesi must prominently display either the “TK” hallmark or a label bearing this designation. Products bearing the “TK” hallmark do not require an additional label. Labels must include the producer’s name, the type and purity of the material used, and confirmation that the item was made using the Trabzon Kazaziyesi technique.

Historical Background

The art of kazazlık existed in various regions of Anatolia during the Ottoman Empire. However, after the establishment of the Republic, it survived exclusively in Trabzon. The incorporation of Trabzon into Ottoman territory in 1461, along with the shipment of raw silver from Gümüşhane via the Port of Trabzon and Trabzon’s strategic commercial position, significantly contributed to the development of goldsmithing in the region. It is known that during this period, Yavuz Sultan Selim and Kanuni Sultan Süleyman, who served as princes in Trabzon, worked in local goldsmith workshops.

Some artifacts dating back to the 16th century exhibit kazazlık techniques. Evliya Çelebi’s travelogues mention that ornamental items produced by Trabzon goldsmiths reached the Ottoman Palace. A court record from the 1600s notes the existence of a commercial area known as “Kazalar Çarşısı” dedicated to goldsmithing, the ownership of which belonged to the Gülbahar Hatun Foundation. Records from the 1750s document silk and silk-like threads used in kazaziye production among the estate inventory of a deceased master. French artist Théophile-Louis Deyrolle’s engravings of Trabzon from 1869 depict local goldsmiths, and in the 1890s, Şemseddin Sami’s work “Kamusü’l-Alam” noted the well-developed state of goldsmithing in Trabzon.

Production Method

The production of Trabzon Kazaziyesi is entirely manual. The process consists of the following steps:

1. Wire Winding: Gold or silver wire is wound onto silk or nylon thread using a spindle.
2. Thickening the Wire: The thickness of the wire varies according to the number of thread layers wrapped around it, resulting in a flexible and durable structure.
3. Weaving Application: The thickened wire is woven using various weaving techniques with the aid of a needle.
4. Assembly and Finishing: The produced components are sewn together using waxed nylon thread and a needle. The ends of the nylon thread are burned with a lighter for cleaning.

Tools and Materials

The main tools and materials used in kazaziye are as follows:

• Spindle: Enables winding the wire onto the thread.
• Hook: Used in weaving operations.
• Sarmaşka / Sarmaçka: Used in ajur technique.
• Gold / Silver Wire and Nylon / Silk Thread: Primary materials.
• Kargaburun: Used for corrections where the wire does not pass through.
• Scissors: Required at all stages.
• Snail Shell Spindle: Used for polishing.

Trabzon Kazaziyesi (Türk Patent)

Basic Weaving Techniques

The primary weaving techniques used in kazaziye art are as follows:

• Fishback Weave: The foundational weave that forms a chain. It is woven with a width of 2–6 knots and is first woven on a steel wire, which is later removed.
• Ajur Weave: A 20–25 micron silver wire is wound around five layers of silk or nylon thread. Particularly used in necklaces and rosary pendants.
• Short Sürgü: Woven on a hook. Serves as a connector between different techniques. The lattice structure is simple.
• Long Sürgü: Similar to the short sürgü but features a more complex lattice structure. Functions as a connecting element.
• Ball Weave: Wire is woven around wooden or plastic beads. A uniform lattice structure is mandatory; no gaps may be left.
• Yeminli Sürgü: This technique, once known only to a few families, is now taught in educational institutions.
• Şemse (Love Knot): Inspired by Seljuk motifs and the sailor’s knot. Used in jewelry.

Product Range

Originally limited to items such as necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and rosary pendants, kazaziye applications are now also used on shoes, bags, belts, coasters, and drinking glasses. Different weaving techniques may be used individually or in combination for decoration. Representative products include whip tassels, headpiece tassels, shawl tassels, and shirt and cuff buttons.

Trabzon Kazaziyesi (Türk Patent)

Marking and Labeling

Products of kazaziye must bear either a “TK” hallmark or a label bearing the “TK” designation. If the “TK” hallmark is directly applied to the product, an additional label is not required. When a label is used, it must include the producer’s name, the type and purity of the material, and confirmation that the item is made using the Trabzon Kazaziyesi technique.

The “TK” hallmark is defined by technical specifications.

Trabzon Kazaziyesi, “TK” hallmark or “TK” label (Turkish Patent)

Technical Specifications of the “TK” Hallmark

• Top horizontal stroke of the letter T: 1 mm
• Left vertical stroke of the letter T: 0.38 mm
• Right vertical stroke of the letter T: 0.48 mm
• Central long vertical stroke of the letter T: 1.7 mm
• Bottom horizontal stroke of the letter T: 0.45 mm
• Central long vertical stroke of the letter K: 1.8 mm
• Central upper and lower horizontal strokes of the letter K: 0.48 mm
• Upper right long stroke of the letter K: 1 mm
• Lower right long stroke of the letter K: 1.1 mm
• Upper and lower right short strokes of the letter K: 0.50 mm

Monitoring Mechanism

The authority responsible for verifying compliance of Trabzon Kazaziyesi products with registration requirements has been established under the coordination of the Trabzon Kuyumcular ve Saatçiler Esnaf ve Sanatkârlar Odası (Trabzon Goldsmiths and Watchmakers Craftsmen’s Chamber). The institutions involved in the monitoring process are:

• T.C. Ortahisar District Governorate Public Education Center
• Zübeyde Hanım Vocational and Technical Anatolian High School Directorate
• Ministry of National Education of the Republic of Türkiye, General Directorate of Lifelong Learning, Trabzon Maturity Institute

Monitoring is conducted at least once annually and also in response to complaints. Reports are submitted to the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office. During monitoring, the following aspects are verified:

• Artisans’ documentation,
• Compliance of products with quality standards,
• Presence or absence of the “TK” hallmark or label,
• Adherence to production methods,
• Quality and purity of materials,
• Appropriateness of tools and equipment,
• Accuracy of label information,
• Whether sufficient information is provided to consumers.

Trabzon Kazaziyesi (Generated by Artificial Intelligence)