Black Sea Keşan Fabric

Black Sea Keşan Fabric is a traditional cotton textile woven in Türkiye’s Black Sea Region, particularly in Trabzon and its surroundings. It is produced using the bezaağı weave technique on shuttle looms. This weaving type is traditionally made in the Eastern Black Sea region, including Trabzon, Rize, Artvin, and nearby areas. Keşan fabric is an integral part of the region’s traditional folk clothing.

History

The origins of Black Sea Keşan fabric are rooted in the region’s hand-weaving traditions. Local textile arts, practiced for centuries on village looms, were primarily used by Black Sea women in the 19th and 20th centuries to produce garments for personal use. Although industrialization led to a decline in traditional weaving, Keşan production continued in rural areas.

Black Sea Keşan fabric is a handwoven textile characterized by distinctive patterns and color structures, traditionally produced in the Eastern Black Sea region, especially in Trabzon, Rize, and Artvin. It has been used in both men’s and women’s traditional rural attire. Unlike Keşan fabric produced in Thrace, Black Sea Keşan is typically finer, with dense linear patterns, vibrant colors, and occasionally adorned with gold-colored accessories. The patterns are created using the ikat technique, in which warp threads are tied and dyed before weaving. This method produces intricate designs by selectively dyeing sections of the threads prior to their integration into the fabric. The dominant colors in Keşan fabric are black, maroon, and yellow, with linear patterns forming the primary design element.

Historically, Trabzon Keşan fabric held an important place in the social life of the Eastern Black Sea region. It was used as peştamal, headscarves, and various textile items. While primarily woven from cotton threads, historical records indicate that linen and silk threads were also used. Black Sea Keşan fabric represents one of the regional manifestations of the ikat technique in Anatolia, which is also found in other traditional textiles such as Kutnu fabric from Gaziantep. Geographic, sociological, and cultural differences across Anatolia significantly influenced the pattern and color structure of Keşan fabric.

Garment Made from Black Sea Keşan Fabric (Anadolu Agency)

Trabzon Keşan fabric served both functional and cultural purposes, featuring in the dowries of young brides and acting as a vehicle for transmitting traditional heritage. Today, its production has declined, and various contemporary applications and experimental designs have been developed to ensure its sustainability.

Technical Features

Keşan fabric is primarily woven from cotton threads. Historical records indicate that linen and silk threads were also used in earlier periods. During weaving, the bezaağı weave structure is preferred, and patterns are created using the ikat technique on the warp threads. In ikat, specific sections of the warp threads are tightly bound before dyeing; this results in patterned designs after dyeing and weaving. The fundamental design characteristic of the fabric consists of linear patterns. The primary colors used are black, maroon, and yellow tones, although various color variations have been observed over time.

Production Stages

Warp Preparation: Warp threads are wound onto a warp frame. Sections designated for ikat patterning are tied off using binding techniques.

Dyeing: Dye is applied to the bound threads. Color transitions and patterns vary according to the binding methods employed.

Transfer to Loom: After dyeing, the warp threads are mounted onto the weaving loom.

Weaving: The fabric is woven on a shuttle loom using the bezaağı weave technique.

Finishing: After weaving is completed, the fabric is shaped according to its intended use.

Embellishments: In traditional garments, Keşan fabric is often decorated along its edges with beads, gold-colored sequins, and thread embroidery.

Materials and Dye Properties

Thread Types: Traditional production primarily uses cotton threads. Historical documentation confirms the use of linen and silk threads in earlier periods.

Dyes: Traditional dyeing employed natural plant-based and mineral dyes. In contemporary production, synthetic dyes are also used.

Loom Characteristics: Armur-equipped or plain shuttle looms are used. In some weavings, simple armur mechanisms enhance pattern complexity.

Applications

Historically, Keşan fabric was used to make traditional garments such as trousers for men and skirts and headscarves for women. It was also utilized in household textiles including tablecloths, curtains, and storage bags. Today, designers incorporate it into modern clothing, bags, and decorative items.

Example of Black Sea Keşan Fabric (Generated by Artificial Intelligence.)

Headscarf: Worn by women for both daily use and special occasions.

Belt: Wrapped around men’s trousers as a sash.

Trousers and Entari Production: Keşan fabric is preferred for traditional women’s garments, especially trousers and entari.

Folk Dance Costumes: Keşan fabric is a key element in the folk dances of Trabzon, Rize, and Artvin.

Weddings and Henna Ceremonies: Keşan is used in the head coverings of brides, often with ornamental edges.

Production Process

The traditional production process of Black Sea Keşan fabric begins with sourcing and dyeing cotton threads. Colored threads are then arranged on the warp frame, and weft threads are manually passed through to create the fabric. After weaving is complete, the fabric is cut and, if desired, embellished with beads or sequins along the edges. Finally, the product is dried and prepared for use.

Cultural Significance

Black Sea Keşan is not merely a textile material but also an integral component of the region’s social life, used in summer festivals, weddings, and traditional dances such as horon. It forms a vital part of the Black Sea’s traditional clothing culture.

Geographical Indication Status

To date, no independent geographical indication has been registered for Black Sea Keşan fabric. However, local cultural associations and several municipalities are actively working to preserve its structure and pursue official registration.

Example of Black Sea Keşan Fabric (Generated by Artificial Intelligence.)

In Türkiye, a fabric registered under the name “Keşan” was granted geographical indication status in 2020 by the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office as a product unique to Keşan district of Edirne. This fabric features a red background and large linear patterns and belongs to the Thrace region. In contrast, the fabric traditionally used in the Black Sea region (Trabzon, Rize, Artvin and surrounding areas), also called “Keşan,” has a different texture and pattern structure. Despite its cultural significance, it currently lacks official geographical indication status.

The video visually presents how the Keşan weaving tradition is preserved and transmitted to future generations through the work of Ayşe Saka, a master weaver awarded the title of Master Weaver in Trabzon. This recording serves as a valuable resource documenting contemporary practitioners and production methods of regional hand-weaving arts, ensuring the continuity of local cultural elements such as Keşan fabric.