Erzurum Ehram Weaving Fabric

Erzurum ehram weaving fabric is a traditional textile product unique to the province of Erzurum, typically woven from a blend of cotton and wool yarns.

On July 6, 2018, it was registered by the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office under registration number 364 as a geographical indication. The application was submitted by the Aziziye Municipality, and the product falls under the category of woven textiles. Historically, it was a local garment worn by women in the Erzurum region for covering purposes, entirely woven from wool on handlooms. No chemical processing is applied during production.

The warp and weft threads of Erzurum ehram weaving fabric are composed entirely of 100% sheep wool. Weaving is carried out on looms equipped with two combs and two pedals. The fabric width varies between 90 cm and 100 cm, compatible with comb widths ranging from 90 to 110 cm. Each square centimeter of the fabric contains a minimum of 9 and a maximum of 14 threads (warp and weft). The yarn count used for the weft ranges from 8 to 12. In traditional measurement, weight was measured in “tuht” and length in “halebi” (75 cm).

The production process consists of two main stages: preparation of the wool and weaving on the loom.

• Wool Preparation: Sheep wool is washed with a “tokaç”, beaten and carded by hand while still damp using a “yün çubuğu”. The carded wool is spun into “sümek” and then transformed into yarn using a “teşi”. The yarn is twisted with a “kelepçe” and wound onto spindles using a “çıyrık” (spinning wheel). To enhance yarn strength, a plant-based paste known locally as “çiriş” is applied. Cotton yarn, referred to as “felemenk”, may be used for motifs and edges.

• Color: The natural colors of sheep wool—white, gray, brown, and black—are traditionally preferred. Since the 1960s, natural dyeing methods have also been adopted in response to user demand. Yarns can be dyed using plant sources such as walnut shells (green), onion skins (brick red), wild mint roots (purple), or quince seeds (burgundy). Salt or alum is used to fix the dye.

• Weaving and Finishing: Weaving begins with the cotton-threaded border known as “haşiye”. On the loom, pedals move the “gücüler” to separate the warp threads, allowing the weft yarn to be passed through with a shuttle. Patterns are created by individually inserting yarns of the required color through the “gücüler”. Due to the narrow width of the handloom, two woven pieces are joined together using a diagonal seam to achieve the desired dimensions (typically 185 x 250 cm) for use.

The geographical boundary of the product is defined as the province of Erzurum. The production, processing, and all other operations related to Erzurum ehram weaving fabric are carried out within these boundaries, following the traditional skills and techniques developed locally and passed down through generations.

Monitoring activities are conducted under the coordination of the Aziziye Municipality. The monitoring body consists of a three-member team representing the Aziziye Municipality, Atatürk University, and the Erzurum Active Women’s Friendship and Solidarity Association. Inspections are carried out at least once annually and whenever a complaint is received. During these inspections, compliance with the geographical indication definition, distinctive characteristics, and production criteria specified (yarn type, handloom use, weaving techniques) is verified. The monitoring body submits its reports to the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office.