Erzurum (Province)

Erzurum is one of the largest and most historic cities in Türkiye's East Anatolia Region. Erzurum, known for its historical and cultural heritage and natural beauty, is also recognized as one of Türkiye's highest-altitude cities. Located at the foot of the Palandöken Mountains, city holds significant importance for winter sports and has become an internationally renowned destination thanks primarily to the Palandöken Ski Center.

Erzurum’s history dates back thousands of years. The city, bearing traces of numerous civilizations from the Urartians to the Byzantines and from the Seljuks to the Ottomans, is distinguished by its rich architectural heritage. The Çifte Minareli Medrese, Yakutiye Medresesi, and Ulu Cami such as structures are among the key monuments that reveal Erzurum’s historical fabric. The city also became one of the most important centers of the National Struggle with the convening of the Erzurum Congress on 23 July 1919 and is among the pivotal cities where the foundations of the Republic of Türkiye were laid.

Erzurum has a harsh continental climate known for its long and cold winters. In a city where agriculture and livestock farming play a major role in the economy, handicrafts have also flourished. In particular, Oltu stone craftsmanship stands out as one of Erzurum’s most important cultural values. In addition, the city is noted for its unique cuisine, attracting local and foreign visitors with delicacies such as cağ kebabı and kadayıf dolması domestic. Today, Erzurum continues to be one of the most important centers of Eastern Anatolia, thanks to its historical and natural attractions as well as its progress in education and culture.

History of Erzurum

Erzurum is one of Türkiye’s oldest settlement centers and has been home to many civilizations throughout history. With a past extending back to around 4900 BCE, the city has been ruled by numerous states including the Hittites, Urartians, Medes, Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Seljuks, Ilkhanids, Kara Koyunlu, Ak Koyunlu, Safavids and Ottomans. Due to its Strategic location, Erzurum has been an important center in every era and has undergone numerous war, occupations and reconstruction processes throughout history.

Ancient and Medieval Period

Erzurum’s earliest known name was Theodosiopolis, named after the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Emperor Theodosius II (408–450). The city was constructed in 415 CE under the orders of Theodosius as part of the Roman Empire. The historian Belazurî notes that the Arabs referred to Erzurum as Kalikala, a name derived from a princess named Kali. According to Islamic sources, the city frequently served as a battleground in Byzantine-Arab wars and was captured multiple times from the 7th century onward by Umayyads and Abbasids.

During the 11th century, as the Great Seljuks launched their incursions into Anatolia, Erzurum was taken by Seljuk commanders and came under Seljuk control after the 1071 Battle of Manzikert. The Saltukids, as the first Turkish beylik established in Erzurum, built significant architectural works from 1071 onward and shaped Erzurum’s Turkic-Islamic identity. Among the city’s most important heritage sites from this period are the Ulu Cami, Erzurum Castle and Saltuklu kümbetleri.

Seljuk and Beylik Period

In 1202, the Anatolian Seljuk Sultan II. Süleyman Shah abolished the Saltukids and incorporated Erzurum directly into Seljuk territory. Occupied by the Mongols in 1242, Erzurum was governed by the Ilkhanids throughout the 13th century and later came under the dominion of Kara Koyunlu, Akkoyunlu and Timur in the 14th century. Erzurum was captured by Safavids in 1502 but was incorporated into Ottoman territory in 1514 following the Iranian Campaign of Yavuz Sultan Selim.

Ottoman Period

The Ottomans regarded Erzurum as a vital center on their eastern frontier and established it as a beylerbeylik. During the 16th and 17th centuries, Erzurum became the main eastern defense line of the Ottoman State, witnessing numerous Ottoman-Safavid wars. Under the reigns of Kanunî Sultan Süleyman and IV. Murad, the city underwent major construction projects, with numerous mosques, madrasa and inn built during this period.

In the 19th century, Erzurum was repeatedly occupied during the Russo-Ottoman wars. The city suffered extensive destruction during Russian occupations in 1829, 1878 and 1916. Particularly during the Russian and Armenian occupation from 1916 to 1918, Erzurum endured massive devastation and local people massacres. Recovered by the Turkish army on 12 March 1918, Erzurum was liberated from occupation but suffered severe population losses.

National Struggle Period and Republic

Erzurum played a crucial role in the National Struggle. The Erzurum Congress convened on 23 July 1919 and laid the foundations of the National Struggle under the leadership of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. The Erzurum Congress was a critical dunum point in defining the Misak-ı Millî and in Türkiye’s struggle for independence.

After the proclamation of the Republic, Erzurum experienced significant development in industry and education among the eastern provinces. The establishment of Atatürk University in 1957 has been instrumental in Erzurum’s growth as the region’s largest educational and research institution. The city expanded and modernized especially during the second half of the 20th century, becoming a center for both tourism and education through its Palandöken Ski Center and historical heritage.

Erzurum Today

Today Erzurum continues to be one of Türkiye’s important cities due to its historical structures, winter tourism opportunities and cultural heritage. With its ski centers on the Palandöken Mountains, historic bazaars, medreses and mosques, Erzurum attracts both local and international tourists. As the city continues to develop during the modernization process, it preserves its historical identity for future generations.

Geography

Geographical Location

Erzurum is one of the largest provinces in Türkiye’s Eastern Anatolia Region. Located between 39°55′ north latitude and 41°16′ east longitude, the city is notable for its high altitude. With an average elevation of 1,850 meters, Erzurum is among Türkiye’s highest cities. To the east it borders Kars and Ardahan, to the west Erzincan, to the north Rize, Artvin and Bayburt, and to the south Bingöl, Muş and Ağrı.

Landforms

Erzurum is one of the highest and most rugged provinces in Eastern Anatolia, consisting largely of high plateaus and mountainous areas. The city is situated on a plateau with an average elevation of 1,850 meters, making it one of Türkiye’s highest cities. Erzurum’s topography is characterized by mountains, valleys, plains and plateaus.

• Mountains: High mountain ranges encircle Erzurum to the north, east and south. Palandöken Mountains (3,185 m), Kargapazarı Mountains (3,170 m), Allahuekber Mountains (3,120 m) and Şahvelet Mountains (2,922 m) are among the region’s most prominent elevations. The Palandöken Mountains are especially significant for winter tourism and skiing.

• Plains: Erzurum has extensive and fertile plains. Erzurum Plain (1,950 m), Pasinler Plain (1,700 m), Hınıs Plain (1,720 m) and Tekman Plain (1,950 m) are the province’s most important agricultural areas. Despite the harsh continental climate, these plains support agricultural activity through irrigation.

• Valleys: The Karasu Valley, Çoruh Valley and Tortum Valley are Erzurum’s most important valley systems, located between its mountains and plateaus. These valleys contain the province’s water resources and are strategically important for settlements.

• Plateaus: A large portion of Erzurum consists of high plateaus. The Pasinler, Erzurum, Narman and Şenkaya plateaus form the province’s extensive pastures and meadows. Erzurum is one of Türkiye’s largest pasture and transhumance regions and holds significant potential for livestock farming.

Rivers

Erzurum is a province rich in water sources, situated between the Fırat, Aras and Çoruh basins. Its main rivers include:

• Karasu River: One of Erzurum’s most important rivers, it forms one of the main tributaries of the Fırat River. It originates in the Dumlu Mountains in northeastern Erzurum and flows westward to join the Keban Dam.

• Aras River: Originating in the Bingöl Mountains in northeastern Erzurum, it extends all the way to Armenia and Azerbaijan. Within Erzurum’s boundaries, the river has an irregular flow regime and serves as an important irrigation source for agricultural lands.

• Çoruh River: Originating in the northwestern part of Erzurum, it flows through Artvin and empties into the Black Sea. Known as one of the world’s fastest-flowing rivers, it is ideal for water sports such as rafting.

• Tortum Stream: This stream flows from Tortum Lake and joins the Çoruh River along the Tortum Valley.

• Oltu Stream: This stream flows through the Oltu district of Erzurum and empties into the Çoruh River.

• Hınıs Stream: This stream flows through the Hınıs Plain in southern Erzurum and connects to the Murat River.

Lakes

Although Erzurum is not particularly rich in lake, it contains several important lakes. The main ones are:

• Tortum Lake: Located in the Uzundere district of Erzurum, Tortum Lake is one of Türkiye’s largest landslide-dammed lakes. The 48-meter-high Tortum Waterfall, fed by this lake, is of great natural and touristic significance.

• Balıklı Lake: Located in the Aziziye district of Erzurum, this lake is famous for its large population of red-spotted trout.

• Aygır Lake: Located in the Tekman district of Erzurum, Aygır Lake is a volcanic lake frequently visited by local populations during summer transhumance.

• Çifte Lakes: These small lakes, located in the Palandöken Mountains, are fed by snow and rainfall.

• Kızlar Lake: Located in the Kargapazarı Mountains in northeastern Erzurum, it is used by the local population as a summer pasture lake.

Climate

Erzurum is one of Türkiye’s coldest and most severe climate zones. Characterized by a continental climate, Erzurum experiences cool, dry summers and long, cold, snow winters. The annual average temperature is around 5–6°C, making Erzurum one of Türkiye’s coldest cities.

In winter, temperatures can drop as low as -30°C, and the city is renowned for its prolonged snow cover. Snow begins falling in November and remains on the ground until April. This extended snow cover has made Erzurum a major center for winter tourism. The Palandöken Ski Center effectively leverages this harsh climate to provide ideal conditions for winter sports.

During Summer months, temperatures typically range between 20–25°C, with significant differences between day and night. Although daytime temperatures in summer can be warm, nights remain cool. Spring and autumn seasons are short and transition rapidly. Erzurum receives an average annual precipitation of 450–500 mm, most of which falls as snow during winter months.

Natural Vegetation

Due to its high altitude and harsh climate, Erzurum’s forest cover is quite limited. Grassland steppe plant vegetation dominates the city. Shrubs and herbaceous plants are common on high plateaus and mountainous areas. However, the northern and northeastern regions around Tortum and Oltu have a relatively milder climate, supporting oak and juniper trees.

Among Erzurum’s extensive plains, the Erzurum Plain, Pasinler Plain and Çat Plain are important agricultural areas where cereal production and livestock farming are practiced. The city is among Türkiye’s most important provinces for pasture and transhumance activities.

Population

Erzurum is one of the largest and most populous provinces in Eastern Anatolia. According to the Turkish Statistical Institute’s (TÜİK) 2024 data, the total population of Erzurum is approximately 745,005. A significant portion of the population is concentrated in central districts. In particular, the districts of Yakutiye, Palandöken and Aziziye host the majority of the population due to their central role in the city’s economic and social activities.

Rural and Urban Population Distribution

• Due to the impact of the continental climate and an economy largely based on agriculture and livestock, Erzurum has a high concentration of rural settlements.

• In recent years, urban population has increased due to migration to the city center, while rural populations have declined.

• Approximately 60% of the population lives in urban centers, while 40% resides in rural areas.

Migration and Population Movements

• Erzurum is among the provinces that experience net emigration. Younger populations migrate primarily to western provinces such as Istanbul, Ankara, İzmir and Bursa for education and employment opportunities.

• Since the 1980s, limited job opportunities in industry and services have accelerated migration from the region.

• As one of Eastern Anatolia’s key educational centers, Erzurum experiences seasonal population increases due to student migration from Atatürk University and Erzurum Technical University.

Birth and Death Rates

• Birth rates in Erzurum are slightly higher than the national average but have shown a declining trend compared to previous years.

• Improvements in healthcare and rising living standards have led to a decline in death rates, with notable reductions in infant and maternal mortality.

Gender and Age Distribution

• The male and female population ratios in Erzurum are very close to each other.

• The youth population ratio is higher than the national average, but due to migration, a large portion of the young population relocates to western provinces.

• The population aged 65 and over is higher in Erzurum than the national average, a phenomenon explained by the outmigration of younger people and the tendency of older populations to remain in the city.

Education and Socioeconomic Status

• Erzurum is one of the most important educational centers in Eastern Anatolia, attracting students from surrounding provinces through established institutions such as Atatürk University.

• The literacy rate is close to the national average, but education levels are relatively lower in rural areas.

• Due to an economy based on agriculture and livestock, unemployment rates in the city are above the national average.

Culture and Tourism

Erzurum is one of Türkiye’s important tourism centers due to its historical heritage, natural beauty and winter tourism potential. With the Palandöken Ski Center, Tortum Waterfall, historic medreses, mosques, kümbetleri and towers, Erzurum is a rich destination for cultural tourism, nature tourism and winter sports tourism.

Winter Tourism and Ski Centers

The Palandöken Ski Center is one of Erzurum’s most famous tourist destinations and stands out as one of Türkiye’s most important winter sports centers.

• The ski center, located on the Palandöken Mountains, reaches an elevation of 3,125 meters and is suitable for skiing from December to April.

• It features long and steep pistes meeting international standards and is favored by professional athletes due to its suitability for alpine competitions.

• Having hosted the 2011 Winter Universiade, Palandöken attracts both domestic and international tourists.

• Konaklı and Kandilli ski centers are other areas in Erzurum used for winter sports.

Cultural and Historical Tourism

Erzurum, one of Anatolia’s oldest settlement sites, bears traces of many different civilizations. Numerous work from the Seljuk, Ottoman and Republican periods await visitors.

Historical and Architectural Structures

• Erzurum Castle and Clock Tower (5th century): Built during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Theodosius, Erzurum Castle is a key structure preserving the city’s historical fabric. The Clock Tower (Tepsi Minare) within the castle, constructed during the Ottoman period, has become one of Erzurum’s symbols.

• Çifte Minareli Medrese (1253–1290): One of Erzurum’s iconic landmarks, the Çifte Minareli Medrese is a monumental structure from the Seljuk period. Built during the reign of Ilkhanid Sultan Olcaytu, it is noted for its stonework and ornamentation.

• Three Kümbetleri (13th century): Among the finest examples of kümbet architecture in Anatolia. The largest is dedicated to Saltukid Emir Emir Saltuk; the builders of the other two remain uncertain.

• Yakutiye Medresesi (1310): Built during the Ilkhanid period, the Yakutiye Medresesi is renowned for its stonework, ornamentation and architectural design. Today, it serves as the Turkish-Islamic Art and Ethnography Museum.

• Rüstem Paşa Bedesteni (Taşhan) (1561): Commissioned by Rüstem Pasha, grand vizier of Kanunî Sultan Süleyman. Today, it functions as a tourist center selling Oltu stone products.

• Lala Mustafa Paşa Cami (1562–1571): An Ottoman-era structure, Lala Mustafa Paşa Cami is one of Erzurum’s largest mosques.

Nature and Pasture Tourism

Erzurum also holds significant potential for nature tourism due to its natural beauty, lakes, waterfalls and pastures.

• Tortum Waterfall: One of Türkiye’s largest and highest waterfalls at 48 meters, it is a popular destination for cooling off and nature walks during summer months.

• Narman Fairy Chimneys: Located in the Narman district of Erzurum, these fairy chimneys are among the region’s most striking natural formations. Resembling those in Cappadocia, the area is known as the “Land of Red Fairies” due to its reddish-colored rocks.

• İspir Seven Lakes: A highly suitable area for hiking, camping and photography. The Seven Lakes in İspir district attract nature lovers with their magnificent scenery.

• Çoruh River and Rafting: The Çoruh River, one of Erzurum’s major rivers, is among the most suitable rivers in Türkiye for rafting. Local and international rafting events are regularly organized.

Thermal and Health Tourism

Erzurum is also an important center for health tourism due to its abundant underground water sources and thermal springs.

• Pasinler Thermal Baths: The thermal waters in Pasinler district are regarded as a healing resource for rheumatism, skin diseases and muscle disorders. One of Türkiye’s oldest thermal baths, they have been in use since the Ottoman period.

• Ilıca Thermal Baths: Located 15 km from Erzurum, the Ilıca Thermal Baths are important for health tourism due to their hot spring sources.

Culinary Tourism

Erzurum’s cuisine holds an important place in gastronomy tourism due to its distinctive regional flavors.

• Cağ Kebabı
• • Erzurum’s most famous dish, Cağ Kebabı, is made from specially marinated lamb and cooked on skewers over wood fire.
  • It is typically served with yogurt, onion and tandır bread.

• Kadayıf Dolması
• • A local dessert made with kadayıf filled with walnuts, fried and sweetened with syrup.

• Tatar Böreği, Su Böreği and Ayran Aşı Çorbası
• • These dishes are among the key flavors of Erzurum cuisine and are especially popular among local tourists.

Traditional Handicrafts

Erzurum is also rich in traditional handicrafts.

• Oltu Stone Craftsmanship: Oltu stone, extracted in the Oltu district of Erzurum and known worldwide, is used to make rosaries, rings and necklaces.

• Copper Craftsmanship: Traditional copper kitchenware and decorative items are among Erzurum’s important handicrafts.

• Amber Craftsmanship: In addition to Oltu stone, amber is also processed in Erzurum.

Administrative Structure

Erzurum is one of the largest provinces in Türkiye’s Eastern Anatolia Region and is administratively divided into 20 districts. As Türkiye’s fourth-largest province by area, Erzurum is also one of the most important administrative centers in Eastern Anatolia. The governor of Erzurum is Mustafa Çiftçi and the mayor is Mehmet Sekmen.

Erzurum’s Districts

Erzurum consists of 20 districts. Each district has its own district governor and municipality administration.

The districts are:

1. Aşkale
2. Aziziye
3. Çat
4. Hınıs
5. Horasan
6. İspir
7. Karaçoban
8. Karayazı
9. Köprüköy
10. Narman
11. Oltu
12. Olur
13. Palandöken
14. Pasinler
15. Pazaryolu
16. Şenkaya
17. Tekman
18. Tortum
19. Uzundere
20. Yakutiye

Metropolitan Districts

Under Law No. 6360, enacted in 2012, Erzurum gained metropolitan municipality status and its central districts were divided into three:

• Yakutiye (Former city center)
• Palandöken (New residential areas)
• Aziziye (Organized Industrial Zone and Ilıca area)

These districts form Erzurum’s metropolitan zones and are directly linked to the metropolitan municipality.