Iznik Derbent Weaving

Iznik Derbent Weaving is a traditional textile produced in the Iznik district of Bursa using wool, cotton, and linen yarns, either patterned or plain, with diverse applications ranging from coverings and undergarments to kilims and bags. This production began in 1924 in Derbent Village and gradually spread throughout the entire Iznik region, becoming an integral part of the area’s economic and cultural fabric. Traditional colors such as black, maroon, navy, red, green, and yellow dominate the designs, while distinctive motifs including double pot, fern, broken meter, and duck shape define the craft’s visual identity.

Iznik Derbent Weaving (AA)

General Characteristics

Traditionally, black, maroon, navy, green, red, and yellow are preferred colors, though other hues may be applied based on demand. The fineness and thickness of the yarns used depend on the intended product, with warp yarns of 20, 30, 40, and 50 counts commonly selected. Cotton, linen, or wool yarns may be used individually or in combination, and production can also incorporate yarns with different properties. The width and length of the textiles vary according to the product being made.

History and Geographic Connection

The origins of Iznik Derbent weaving trace back to 1924 in Derbent Village, located in the Iznik district of Bursa. Over time, production expanded to encompass the entire Iznik region. Iznik Derbent weaving plays a significant role in both the local economy and traditional practices, establishing a direct link between geographic boundaries and production.

Production Method and Motifs

Iznik Derbent weaving is typically executed on a off-white or cream-colored ground. Traditional motifs include double pot, fern, broken meter, side pass, duck, drumstick, tefe, islihas leaf, bird’s eye, crossed islihas, knife tip, and ball of yarn. These patterns serve as both visual identifiers and functional elements within the textiles.

Product Types and Features

• Yağlık: A textile woven with colored cotton yarn and further embellished on the loom with colored threads and silver wire. Used as a prize in oil wrestling, and also employed as decoration for bridal carriages, bridal trousseau items, home furnishings, or hand towels.
• Çevre: Plain cotton weaving decorated with floral patterns using colored threads on the loom. Used in bridal trousseaus and as a symbolic handkerchief sent from the bride’s home to the groom’s home.
• Kuşak: Woven as a cord from wool or cotton yarn, with tassels added at each end. Typically red and white, worn as a belt for clothing.
• Döşek: A striped wool textile used as a floor mat.
• Kilim: Woven with wool yarn in red, blue, green, and yellow colors.
• Çerga: A black and white striped wool textile, used as a covering by women during the olive harvest in November to protect against the cold.
• Torba: Made from black and white striped wool fabric, sewn into a bag shape with a strap woven in a braided pattern using wool yarn.
• Gömlek: Usually made from plain white or red-striped cotton weaving, with needle lace detailing on the sleeve openings. Included in bridal trousseaus and worn as undergarment.
• Don: Woven from cotton yarn, with colored patterns applied via needle lace on the leg sections. Worn by men as undergarment and by women beneath the skirt so that the leg patterns are visible.
• Çendele: Patterned weaving made from red and maroon wool yarn, fashioned as an apron and fastened at the waist with a belt.
• Raramka: A black and white striped wool textile worn by women to prevent their headscarves from getting wet while carrying water.
• Fisto: Fine wool weaving in black and white stripes, used in skirt construction.
• Uçkur: Woven as a belt from cotton yarn, with patterns at the ends. Used to fasten the waist of don garments.
• Peşkir: A towel-like textile woven from cotton yarn and decorated with colored patterns at the ends. Given as a gift in bridal trousseaus or during ceremonies.
• Ekmek Bezi: Striped weaving made from red, white, and navy cotton yarn. Used to keep food warm, wrap bread for field trips, or wrap yogurt containers.
• Çarşaf / Kırpa: Striped cotton weaving with border motifs, used for covering purposes.

The motifs used in these textiles include ball of yarn, jug, flower in pot, tulip, geranium, spotted cherry, bird’s eye, broken meter, fern, clover, tefe, snake curve, drumstick, duck, side pass, crossed islihas, knife tip, and various geometric patterns. These designs contribute both to visual diversity and to the traditional character of the weaving.

Iznik Derbent Weaving (AA)

Geographic Boundary and Production Conditions

All stages of Iznik Derbent weaving production must take place within the administrative boundaries of the Iznik district of Bursa. This geographic connection is maintained through the transmission of traditional knowledge and regional production practices.

Registration Information

Iznik Derbent weaving was registered as a geographical indication on 16 May 2023 under number 1357. The application number is C2022/000334, with the application date of 5 October 2022. The registering authority is Iznik Municipality, located at Selçuk Mah. Rauf Denktaş Cad. No: 65/A, Iznik, Bursa. This geographical indication, in the form of a certification mark, must appear on the product or its packaging as “Iznik Derbent Weaving” along with the official certification emblem. If not used on the product or packaging, the inscription and emblem must be displayed in a clearly visible location within the production facility.

Monitoring and Control Mechanism

The production process of Iznik Derbent weaving is monitored under the coordination of Iznik Municipality. The monitoring body consists of experts selected from Iznik Municipality, Iznik Women Producers Development Cooperative, and Iznik People’s Education Center. Annual inspections are conducted, but additional inspections may be carried out at any time in response to complaints or as deemed necessary. During inspections, the suitability of yarn types used, conformity of patterns to traditional characteristics, accuracy of production methods, and proper use of the “Iznik Derbent Weaving” inscription and certification emblem are verified. The monitoring body may obtain services from public or private institutions or individual experts as needed. The registering authority holds the legal authority to pursue judicial processes to protect the rights associated with this geographical indication.