Pers Clothing and Accessories

Pers clothing is a cultural element that throughout history has combined functionality with aesthetic elements. It typically featured long, loose-fitting garments, belts, and head coverings, with fabric quality and ornamentation varying according to social status. Handwoven fabrics, patterned motifs, and vibrant colors are characteristic features of this tradition.

The Socio-Cultural Role of Clothing

Iranian (Persian) women’s clothing was not merely a response to modesty requirements or climatic conditions; it also functioned as a carrier of identity, social status, moral values, and cultural transformations. Throughout history, garments were shaped by the meanings assigned to the female body—sometimes controlled by authority, at other times serving as a form of individual or collective expression.

Especially during the Qajar period, women’s clothing underwent transformation under the influence of both traditional Iranian aesthetics and Western modernization, developing a rich diversity reflected in distinctions between indoor and outdoor attire, social class differences, and court versus popular dress.

Early Periods: Elamite and Achaemenid Clothing

Elamite Clothing (2750–653 BCE)

The Elamite Empire at its height encompassed a vast region stretching from eastern Mesopotamia to Central Asia and Pakistan. On Elamite cylinder seals, bearded male figures are depicted wearing multi-layered skirts, while female figures are shown in elbow-length sleeved, cross-collared bodices, bell-shaped skirts adorned with wide decorative bands, fabric wings, and sheep’s wool fringes. Additionally, rock reliefs portray long-sleeved, ankle-length cloaks with raised collars at the shoulders.

Achaemenid Clothing (550–330 BCE)

Reliefs from Persepolis and tile panels from Susa during the Achaemenid Empire provide details about clothing. Men’s attire included the “Med” garment—a tunic reaching the knees with long-sleeved jackets draped over the shoulders (kandys)—and the “Pers” garment, featuring a flared skirt ending at the ankle and resembling a puffed upper garment. Information on women’s clothing is limited, but rich embroidery and fabric use were common, consistent with the social and ritual context of the time. Male members of the Achaemenid dynasty tightly curled their hair to ear level and styled their beards in regular curls.

Parthian (Arsacid) Period Clothing (250 BCE–224 CE)

During the Parthian period, trade along the Silk Road flourished, bringing silk and other textile goods from China into Iran. Clothing from this era is known through figures depicted in sites such as ancient Palmyra, Dura-Europos, Hatra, and Nimrud Dagh.

Men wore long-sleeved tunics belted at the hips, sometimes with U-shaped aprons and fitted, long jackets. Trousers were gathered at the ankles. Long folded shawls or silk ribbons symbolized priestly attire. Women favored close-fitting, embellished bodices and flared skirts influenced by the Greek chiton. Long, wide shawls were worn over the shoulders.

Women’s Clothing from the Ancient and Sassanian Periods to the Islamic Era

Traces of women’s clothing in Iran appear in ancient Persian reliefs. During the Achaemenid and Sassanian periods, female figures were commonly depicted wearing long, flowing tunics and head coverings. Under the Sassanians, women’s dress became a prominent symbol of both social and religious identity. Embroidered fabrics, gold-decorated shawls, and head coverings were key elements reflecting the status of noblewomen.

In the post-Islamic period, women’s clothing adapted to religious norms; head coverings (rûsârî), face veils (pîçe), and outer garments (châdor) came to the forefront. Clothing was no longer merely an aesthetic element but was increasingly regarded as a symbol of moral boundaries.

Qajar Period Dress Style (Museum of Islamic Art)

Women’s Clothing in the Qajar Period (1796–1925)

General Characteristics

The Qajar period is one of the most vibrant and well-documented eras of Iranian women’s clothing. During this time, marked by intense artistic production—particularly in miniature and portrait painting—women’s garments became cultural codes that documented not only physical covering but also societal structures, modernization trends, and evolving notions of female identity.

Indoor (Andarun) Clothing

Within the Qajar palace, women wore more comfortable and ornate garments for domestic life. Key elements of indoor attire included:

• Pîrâhan: A long-sleeved, form-fitting undergarment typically made of fine silk fabric.
• Şalîta: A full, layered skirt reaching below the knees. By the late Qajar period, it became shorter and gained popularity among palace women.
• Kolîca / Arkhalîg: A jacket-style outer garment, buttoned at the front, extending to the hips. It was richly embroidered and decorated.

These garments were generally made from colorful, patterned, and luxurious fabrics such as silk, velvet, and satin. Palace women completed their outfits with expensive jewelry and often left their hair loose or wore ornate headpieces.

Outdoor Clothing

When leaving the home or entering spaces where unrelated men were present, women wore more concealing garments. The most common types of outerwear included:

• Châdor: A full-body covering extending from head to toe. During the Qajar period, châdors were typically made from patterned fabrics; black châdors became widespread in the 20th century.
• Pîçe: A face veil or partial face covering, usually made of fine tulle or semi-transparent fabric.
• Mantû / Abâ: Long coats, especially worn by urban women.

Outer garments were generally dark-colored and simply woven. However, women of higher social classes continued to display their status through finely embroidered or silk châdors.

Qajar Period Dress Style (Iran)

European Influence and Dress Reforms

In the late Qajar period, particularly following Naser al-Din Shah’s travels to Europe, court women began adopting Western styles. This change was most evident in innerwear. For example:

• Shorter şalîta skirts
• Bodice styles emphasizing the waist
• Adoption of heeled shoes

This influence is clearly visible in the portraits painted by court artists. Clothing became a symbol of modernity and Westernization, giving rise to a hybrid style that blended traditional veiling with modern fashion. However, traditional dress persisted for a long time in rural areas.

The Social and Class Significance of Clothing

For Qajar women, clothing was not merely a means of protection or decoration; it was a clear indicator of social class. Palace women dressed in expensive fabrics, embroidery, and jewelry, while rural women wore simpler garments made of wool or cotton. Significant differences were also observed between urban and rural women in terms of veiling styles, color usage, and fabric types.

Symbolism and Female Identity in Clothing

Women’s clothing in the Qajar period served as a powerful tool in the context of women’s limited public visibility and representation. Yet within these constraints, women found ways to express their personal tastes, identities, and social affiliations through dress. Color choice, jewelry use, and hairstyle became key symbols of individual differentiation.

Persian women’s clothing is a multi-layered cultural heritage that reflects the aesthetic values, moral norms, social structures, and external influences of different historical periods. The Qajar period may be the richest and most visually documented era of this heritage. Traditional veiling forms evolved under European influence but retained their original identity, transforming into a distinct form of cultural expression for Iranian women.