Ankara Seymen Costume is a registered male attire featuring the distinctive mahreç symbol unique to the province of Ankara. Traditionally worn by seymen/seğmen groups during traditional ceremonies, national celebrations, meetings, weddings, and special occasions such as holidays, the costume consists of a total of 11 main components and holds a significant place in Ankara’s cultural and historical heritage. The origins of the costume are rooted in the traditions and customs of the Oğuz Turks who settled in Ankara and in the seymen/seğmen tradition, a key element of the Ahi period that existed in Ankara between 1290 and 1354. It was officially registered by the Ankara Metropolitan Municipality on 06.06.2022.
Product Features
The costume comprises eleven main components: Osmaniye işlik, camadan, cepken (eagle wing), yelek (front-buttoned vest, velvet vest, chuh fabric vest), knee socks, zıvga, belt (almond-patterned shawl belt, Trablus belt), kefiye, takke, yemeni, and silahlık.
- Osmaniye İşlik: Made from certified Antep kutnu fabric in size 199. It features a red-and-white vertical striped pattern, a haydari collar, and an open front.
- Knee Socks: Crafted using tiftik yarn, reaching the knee and woven in either openwork or plain knit patterns.
- Trablus Belt and Kefiye: Produced using silk yarn.
- Zıvga: A pant leg typically made from chuh fabric in navy, lead gray, or cream. It is narrow and extends to the ankle. The back is generously full and falls in a tail-like drape with between 12 and 24 pleats (pile).
- Yemeni and Silahlık: The leather used is sourced from tanneries established in Ankara, based on the leatherworking practices of the Ahi craftsmen who lived in Anatolia during the 13th century. Yemeni comes in two types: either with a six-cornered leather upper and visible cream-colored stitching, or with a six-cornered upper made of soft leather in black. Silahlık is made of soft leather, has eight eyelets, and is worn over the belt.
The production of the costume’s most essential components—the Osmaniye işlik, camadan, cepken, yeleks, knee socks, zıvga, silahlık, and yemeni—requires craftsmanship skills.
Production Method
The materials and techniques used in producing each component of the costume vary:
- Osmaniye İşlik: Sewn from red-and-white vertical striped Antep kutnu fabric. It has a haydari collar, an open front, and is fastened at the side with a tie. The collar and cuff edges are decorated with yellow embroidery. The interior is lined with cotton fabric. The traditional hand-stitched cord embroidery is now also applied using machines.
- Camadan: Made from chuh fabric and worn over the işlik. It is short and narrow, extending from the waist to chest level. Decorated with a sim-thread cord embroidery technique and lined internally.
- Cepken (Eagle Wing): Made from navy, black, dark red, or blue chuh fabric. Embroidered with sim-thread cord embroidery. It is short and narrow, similar in cut to the camadan.
- Vests
- Front-Buttoned Vest: Worn beneath the Osmaniye işlik. Typically made from the red-and-white striped variety of Antep kutnu fabric, it has a closed collar and no sleeves. Decorated with silk embroidery and ibrişim buttons.
- Velvet / Chuh Vest: Worn instead of the front-buttoned vest. It has no sleeves and a closed collar. Fastened with two rows of mother-of-pearl buttons and commonly made from black, navy, burgundy, or dark green chuh or velvet fabric.
- Knee Socks: Woven from tiftik yarn in either openwork or plain knit, reaching the knee and secured with a thin tie.
- Zıvga: Made from chuh fabric. The legs are narrow and extend to the ankle, worn over the knee socks. The back is full and pleated with between 12 and 24 pleats. Fastened at the waist with a drawstring. Optionally, the legs and side panels may be decorated with cord embroidery.
- Belts
- Almond-Patterned Shawl Belt: Woven from wool, rectangular in shape (2.5 meters long, 80 centimeters wide), with slightly fringed ends. The pattern features almond motifs and may vary in color.
- Trablus Belt: Woven from silk yarn, rectangular in shape (4 meters long, 90 centimeters wide).
- Kefiye: Worn on the head, woven from silk fabric with fringed ends. It is either rectangular or square and typically features multicolored tones of yellow.
- Takke: Worn beneath the kefiye to secure it in place. Made from navy or black velvet fabric or knit.
- Yemeni: Made from leather and kösele. The seam where the kösele meets the leather is clearly visible with cream-colored thread.
- Silahlık: Made from soft leather and worn over the belt. It has eight eyelets. The upper edges are decorated with braided trim, and a dragon motif is used on the lower left side.
Geographical Boundary
The geographical boundary of the product is the province of Ankara. Due to its historical reputation and cultural significance, all production stages requiring craftsmanship—including the manufacture of the Osmaniye işlik, camadan, cepken, yeleks, knee socks, zıvga, silahlık, and yemeni—must take place within this geographical boundary. Additionally, the leather used in the production of yemeni and silahlık must also be sourced from within this geographical boundary.
Supervision
Supervision of the Ankara Seymen Costume is carried out by a minimum of three-member oversight body coordinated by the Ankara Metropolitan Municipality, including one expert each from the Ankara Metropolitan Municipality, the Ankara Club Association, and the Ankara Maturity Institute. Supervisions are conducted regularly at least once per year. Additional inspections may be carried out at any time in response to complaints or as deemed necessary. The results of these inspections are reported by the Ankara Metropolitan Municipality and regularly submitted to the Turkish Patent and Trademark Office.
Supervision criteria include:
- All production stages of the Osmaniye işlik, camadan, cepken, yeleks, knee socks, zıvga, silahlık, and yemeni must occur within the geographical boundary.
- The leather used in the production of yemeni and silahlık must be sourced from within the geographical boundary.
- Tiftik yarn must be used in the production of knee socks.
- Appropriateness of other components used in production.
- Compliance of all costume components and the complete costume with the specified production methods.
- Proper use of the designations “Ankara Seymen Costume” / “Ankara Seğmen Costume,” its logo, and the mahreç symbol.
