Muş (Province)

Muş, historical as a site bearing traces of numerous civilizations, important is a regional center. City was established in the 4th century and has a history extending back to the Urartian period. The Urartians named Muş after one of their great kings, and this name was used for centuries long between people as common. Over time, through linguistic evolution among the local population, it came to be known as “Muş” in the present day.

History

Ancient Period

Although definitive information about the founding of Muş is lacking, the region’s historical record begins with the Urartian Kingdom. The Urartians established dominance in the East Anatolia region as a unified kingdom in the 9th century BCE. Muş occupied a strategic position as a key center along the Urartian royal route. The Urartians established significant settlements in the area, likely settling in the Muş Plain as early as the 12th century BCE. Muş is frequently mentioned in Assyrian sources during this period and became an important settlement center as Urartian influence expanded.

Medieval Period

Throughout the Middle Ages, Muş and its surroundings came under the rule of many different civilizations. During this period, the region successively fell under the influence of the Medes, Persians, Romans, Parthians, and the Sassanian Empire. Particularly, the Persian establishment of dominance over Eastern Anatolia around 550 BCE reinforced Muş’s strategic importance. The region remained under Sassanian control for an extended period before being captured by the Byzantine Empire. During the Arab incursions of the 7th century, Muş remained under Byzantine rule and gradually came under Turkish influence.

Seljuk and Ottoman Period

In the 11th century, following their victory over the Byzantines at the Battle of Manzikert, the Seljuks established control over Eastern Anatolia. Muş experienced a major period of development under Seljuk administration, with increased settlement in the region. In the 13th century, Muş and its surroundings came under the control of the Ahlatshahs Beylik, then changed hands between the Artuqids and the Ayyubids.

Its incorporation into the Ottoman Empire dates to 1515. Yavuz Sultan Selim annexed the region to Ottoman territory, and Muş gradually became a district center subordinate to the Bitlis Eyalet. During the Ottoman period, the city repeatedly faced local uprisings and external threats. Nevertheless, Muş’s cultural and economic development continued, and by the 19th century, with the establishment of a railway connection, it became a significant transportation hub.

Republican Period

Following the proclamation of the Republic, development initiatives were launched in Muş, and through local administrative reforms, the city was declared a province in 1923. However, Muş continued to be affected by various political and social events during this period. The 1925 Sheikh Said Rebellion sparked significant tension in Eastern Anatolia, particularly around Muş, but the rebellion was suppressed by the Republican government. Muş suffered Russian occupation during the First World War but was later reclaimed by the Turkish army after a brief period. The struggles against Armenians and the Russian occupation altered the region’s demographic structure and led to several massacres. During this time, Muş’s economy continued to develop primarily through agriculture and animal husbandry.

Geographical Structure

Muş Province is located in the Eastern Anatolia Region, situated between latitudes 39°29' and 38°29' north and longitudes 41°06' and 41°47' east. With an area of 8,196 km², it constitutes 1.1% of Türkiye’s total land area. Muş is bordered by the Patnos and Tutak districts of Ağrı Province to the east, the Ahlat and Adilcevaz districts of Bitlis to the south, the Karayazı, Hınıs, Tekman, and Karaçoban districts of Erzurum Province to the north, the Karlıova and Solhan districts of Bingöl to the west, and the Kulp district of Diyarbakır, the Sason district of Batman Province, and the Göroymak and Mutki districts of Bitlis to the south. Muş Province lies on the northern slopes of Kurtik Mountain, one of the prominent peaks of the Haçreş Mountains, which are an extension of the Southeastern Taurus Mountains, within the valleys of the Çar and Karni rivers.

Landforms

Muş features a high and mountainous terrain, with 34.9% of its territory covered by mountains. These mountains are young formations associated with the Alp-Himalayan fold system and generally rise above 1,250 meters in elevation. The province also contains plains, covering 27.2% of its area, and plateaus covered by gently undulating and fertile alluvial deposits, accounting for 37.9%. The Murat Valley cuts through the province from east to west, forming a major natural feature.

Mountains

The main mountains surrounding Muş Province are extensions of the Southeastern Taurus Mountains. Once forested, these mountains have become largely bare over time. Major mountains in Muş Province include Akdoğan (Hamurpet) Mountain, Şerafettin Mountains, Bilican Mountains, Bingöl Mountains, Haçreş Mountains, Otluk Mountains, and Yakupağa Mountains.

• Akdoğan (Hamurpet) Mountain: Located north of Muş, this mountain reaches a height of 2,879 meters. Akdoğan Lake lies atop this mountain.
• Şerafettin Mountains: Located west of Muş Province, the majority of these mountains lie within Bingöl Province’s boundaries. They extend in an east-west direction.
• Bilican Mountains: Situated between the Bulanık and Liz plains, their highest peak reaches 2,950 meters.
• Bingöl Mountains: Located in the northwestern part of Muş Province, the majority of these mountains lie within Erzurum Province.
• Haçreş (Karaçavuş, Çavuş) Mountains: Located southwest of the Muş district center, the city of Muş was built on the northern slopes of Kurtik Mountain, one of their prominent peaks.
• Yakupağa Mountains: Located in the southeastern part of Muş Province, they form a natural boundary between Muş and Van provinces.

Plateaus

The plateaus of Muş Province cover 37.9% of its territory. These plateaus lie between the ceiling of the Murat Valley and the mountain peaks and generally have a flat topography. The plateaus are rich in water and pasture, making animal husbandry the most developed agricultural activity in Muş.

Valleys and Plains

The valleys of Muş Province were primarily carved by the Murat River and its tributaries. The largest and most important of these is the Murat Valley. Plains cover 27.2% of the province’s area, with the most significant being Muş, Bulanık, Malazgirt, and Liz Plains.

• Murat Valley: Begins in the northwestern part of the province and widens toward the Bulanık Plain. The valley floor expands in the Muş Plain before deepening again.
• Muş Plain: One of the largest plains in Türkiye, covering approximately 1,650 km². It is 80 km long and 30 km wide. Geologically, the Muş Plain is a depression area covered with fertile alluvial deposits.
• Bulanık Plain: A narrow strip extending along the Murat River, primarily used for cereal cultivation and sheep and cattle farming.
• Liz Plain: Begins south of the Bilican Mountains and extends to the Murat River. This plain has an undulating topography, with its broadest sections serving as pastureland.
• Malazgirt Plain: Located in the eastern part of Muş Province, it lies north of the Murat River. This plain has a vast steppe-like appearance.

Rivers

Muş Province lies within the Euphrates Basin, and its most important rivers are the Murat River and its tributary, the Karasu River.

• Murat River: Originates north of Lake Van and is 600 km long. It enters Muş Province from the northeast, with a discharge varying between 200 and 300 m³ per second.
• Karasu River: Originates in Güroymak and is 68 km long. It flows in a northwest-southeast direction, with its main tributaries being Abdulbahar, Kelereş, Çar, and Karni.

Lakes

The main lakes within the boundaries of Muş Province are:

• Haçlı (Bulanık) Lake: A lava-dammed lake located south of Bulanık District. Known for its turbid water, it is home to trout and mirror carp.
• Büyük Hamurpet Lake: Located northwest of Varto District at an elevation of 2,149 meters. Surrounded by steep rocks, it provides habitat for mirror carp, ducks, and geese.
• Küçük Hamurpet Lake: Located south of Büyük Hamurpet Lake at an elevation of 2,173 meters.
• Gaz (Kaz) Lake: Located in Malazgirt District, it is a karstic lake with saline and bitter water. It serves as an important stopover for migratory birds.

Economic Structure

Muş Province is one of Türkiye’s less economically developed regions, with its economy largely based on agriculture and animal husbandry. The province’s industry sector has lagged in development, and a closed, agriculture-dependent economy dominated for many years. However, in recent years, private sector initiatives and incentives have led to the establishment of medium-scale industrial enterprises.

Agriculture and Animal Husbandry

Agriculture and animal husbandry play a significant role in Muş’s economy. Total agricultural land amounts to 342,198 hectares, most of which is cultivated. Key agricultural products include wheat, barley, sugar beet, sunflower, tobacco, and cereals. Animal husbandry is also a vital subsector, with small livestock farming being widespread; sheep and goat rearing are the most common activities. However, productivity in agriculture and animal husbandry remains low, primarily due to traditional methods of production. This situation is a major factor limiting economic development in the region.

Despite possessing one of Türkiye’s largest plains, Muş cannot fully utilize its land due to harsh climatic conditions and insufficient water resources. In particular, inadequate irrigation infrastructure in the Muş Plain contributes to low agricultural yields. However, the completion of the Alparslan II Dam and other irrigation projects is expected to improve this situation.

Industry

Industry plays a minor role in Muş’s economic structure. The main reasons for its underdevelopment include insufficient capital accumulation, unfavorable climatic conditions, and limited raw materials. Large-scale industrial enterprises are limited in the province. These include the Muş Sugar Factory and the Muş Cement Factory. Medium-scale enterprises include textile mills, brick factories, dairy plants, and food production facilities. However, it is anticipated that small industrial enterprises established through private sector initiatives will contribute to industrial growth in the province.

The Muş Organized Industrial Zone, operational since 2008, has made significant contributions to industrial development. Planned to accommodate 54 factories, carpet production is currently underway in various sectors.

Trade

Trade is a vital component of the provincial economy. Commercial activity remains vibrant in the provincial center and environment districts. The bulk of trade consists of food, construction materials, agricultural products, and durable consumer goods. A significant portion of the province’s plant products, particularly chickpeas and bean, is exported outside the province. Livestock products also constitute an important part of trade.

Employment and Labor Force

Employment in Muş is heavily concentrated in agriculture and animal husbandry. The agricultural sector accounts for 56.2% of total employment, while the industrial sector accounts for only 2%. This low share reflects the province’s limited industrialization. Unskilled labor constitutes the majority of the workforce in agriculture and animal husbandry, and unemployment rates have historically been high at time times.

Historical Sites

• Tells and Archaeological Sites: Excavations and surface surveys within Muş’s boundaries have revealed that the region was under the control of ancient cultures such as the Hurri-Mitanni and has yielded artifacts from various cultures spanning the Chalcolithic period to the Middle Ages. These findings demonstrate Muş’s historical significance as a settlement center. Notable tells include Yağcılar, Dolabaş, Bostankale, and Mercimekkale. Additionally, rock tombs and settlements from the Urartian period are present.
• Mosques: One of Muş’s important mosques is the Ulu Mosque, dated to the second half of the 14th century and traditionally attributed to Sheikh Muhammed-i Mağribi. Hacı Şeref Mosque is a Seljuk structure dating from the 17th century. Alaaddin Bey Mosque, constructed in the early 18th century, has a square plan. Other significant mosques include Bulanık Mollakent Mosque and Bulanık Esenlik Mosque.
• Medreses: Mollakent Medrese was built in 1321 by Sheikh İbrahim. Muratpaşa Medrese served as an educational center for logic, hadith, and tafsir. Mahsut Paşa Medrese, the largest in Muş, taught Islamic law and other disciplines. Alaaddin Bey Medrese is notable as a school where renowned scholars were educated.
• Churches: Among Muş’s ancient churches are the Virgin Mary Church and the Çanlı Church (Surpgarabet Monastery). Other ruins include the Sirong Church in Kırköy, the Kırkayak Church, and the Kırmızı Kilise in Kızılağaç.
• Inns, Baths, and Fountains: Yıldızlı Han, built in 1307, was an important trading post on the Silk Road. Aslanlı Han, a Seljuk structure, survives only in fragments. Alaaddin (Yakup Efendi) Bey Fountain is located within the Alaaddin Bey Mosque complex.
• Tombs and Shrines: Muş contains several important tombs. Kesik Baş is associated with a legend of a figure who lost his head in battle. İbrahim Samidi Tomb reflects Seljuk Turkish funerary architecture. The tombs of Sheikh Muhammed-i Mağribi and Müştak Baba honor prominent religious figures of the region.
• Castles and Towers: Muş Castle is among the oldest structures in the city and has served as a site of historical battles. Hasbet Castle dates to the Urartian period and was used as a key military garrison. Muşet Castle and Malazgirt Castle are also significant fortifications in the region.
• Bridges: The Murat River Bridge is an example of Seljuk architecture, measuring 143 meters in length. Hatun Bridge and Kız Bridge are other important bridges in the Malazgirt region.
• Baths: Alaaddin Bey Hamam, dating from the Ottoman period, remains in use. Güllü Hamam and Dere (Migre) Hamam are among the structures built by the Anatolian Seljuks.
• Traditional Muş Houses: Muş’s traditional houses are two-story, courtyard-style dwellings consistent with typical Turkish residential architecture. Built using wood and adobe, these homes were constructed to suit the local climate. Their interior layouts reflect simple, functional designs influenced by Ottoman and Seljuk traditions.

Cuisine

Muş’s cuisine offers a rich variety centered on meat. Key local dishes include Muş Köftesi (Hafta Direği), Hez Dolması, Domatesli Lahana Dolması (Kırkçikli Kelem Dolması), Çorti, and Keşkek.

• Muş Köftesi (Hafta Direği): Lean meat is mixed with bulgur, stuffed with a filling, boiled in salted water, then served with melted butter poured on top.
• Hez Dolması: Minced meat mixed with rice is wrapped in boiled cabbage leaves and cooked with sumac water added.
• Domatesli Lahana Dolması: Minced meat mixed with bulgur is wrapped in boiled cabbage leaves and cooked with tomatoes and peppers.
• Çorti: Cabbage, parsley, basil, and spices are stuffed into cabbage leaves with chickpeas and dough added to create a sour flavor, prepared as a winter dish.
• Keşkek: A mixture of chickpeas and crushed wheat is cooked with meat and served with onions sprinkled on top.

Administration

Governor

The current Governor of Muş is Avni Çakır. Çakır assumed office on 18 August 2023, following his appointment by Presidential Decree No. 2023/376 dated 10 August 2023.